Colombian a taste of ethnic cuisine

Let's just put it out there: Colombian's Taste has a few strikes against it, the first being its “sexy strip mall” locale. (I mean this literally, since it's sandwiched between a sketchy-looking nightclub, 24-hour “spa” and questionable “apparel” store.) Needless to say, the characters parading by don't exactly help the cause. Then there's the fact that this is the first restaurant venture for the two sisters who opened it earlier this year.

Yet that adage, “Don't judge a book by its cover,” certainly rings true in this case.

Nestled into the compact — OK, cramped — space that once housed Cuban Cafe Havana, Colombian's Taste is adorned simply with tiles, its walls hung with balcony-like, handicraft facades that lend a homey touch. There are exactly two tables and a couple of stools, and there's barely room for a single one. But the jovial, homespun feel of the place goes a long way toward forgiving such idiosyncrasies. And I've suffered through many uncomfortable meals at Rick Bayless' Xoco, every one worth its weight in elbow bumps. Sometimes, you put up and shut up if the meal has rewards.

For those less familiar with Colombian fare, there's a picture menu behind the small, pastry-stocked counter. It helps. But you should also feel free to ask fellow diners, who are likely to bestow their favorites, as was the case when we dined.

The electric-yellow empanadas are solid; stuffed with hunks of perfectly seasoned chicken, they should be gilded with house-made aji, garlicky, briny green sauce that packs a bit of heat.

So much on the menu is worth exploring, really, but the pandebono — a poof of savory cheese bread — pops. And the bunuelo, a humble, heavenly ball of fried dough? One bite in, and you'll never be the same.

Another dish you'll want to order is the interactive tostada con todo, a flattened, fried disc of plantain, which arrives with four accompaniments: chunky guacamole, hogao (tangy-sweet tomato-onion relish), fried nubs of pork and stewy, pulled beef that's reminiscent of ropa vieja.

No matter what we tried, though, we kept going back to that sauce. Oh, that aji sauce.

Our one disappointment of the meal was the promising sobrebarriga a la criolla, flank steak, served with rice and red potatoes and cassava flecked with tomatoes. Mind you, the problem wasn't the flavor it was the texture. The meat, while tender, was stringy and hard to cut. Had it been pulled like the aforementioned plantain condiment, it may have been the fine flavor that lingered in our minds. Take heed: our table neighbors' gigantic, banana leaf-steamed tamal and grilled skirt steak with arepas (cornmeal patties) and egg seemed like the superior choice. Next time, for sure.

Lest they be overlooked, remember to order a side of papa criolla, fried baby potatoes. As if by magic, their golden, crackly exterior melts into a silky, starchy inside. But buyer beware: they're hot as all get-out when they arrive.

Desserts are kept simple. We went with the arroz con leche, comforting rice pudding. There's also dense torta negra, “black” cake speckled with fruit.

As for beverages, alcohol is not served here, but cream soda-ish Colombiana and the like are on hand. However, we found the lightly sweet, refreshing Colombian limonade to be a real treat. Our server presented it with flourish after a bit of delay, professing, “it's made with fresh-squeezed lemons.” It was worth the wait.

And the thing is, you will wait.

Dishes are brought out one at a time — and not all of them quickly. If that makes you uptight, order carryout. This is a case where slow service appears the result of carefully prepared fare. You know, the kind a loved one would labor over. And I walked away at peace with that.

Ÿ Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not review restaurants it cannot recommend.

Colombian's Taste

5N105 Route 53, Itasca, (847) 250-5366; colombian staste.com

<b>Cuisine: </b>Colombian

<b>Setting: </b>Petite storefront and carryout operation

<b>Entrees: </b>$5 to $65 (feast for seven)

<b>Hours: </b>10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday; 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday