Bright and zesty Mexican favorites are all in the family

La Casa de Isaac

431 Temple Ave., Highland Park, (847) 433-5550

Cuisine: Mexican

Setting: Colorful, unpretentious storefront on the border of Highwood

Price range: Appetizers $2.75 to $7; entrees $4.75 to $16; desserts $4.50

Hours: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday; one hour after sunset to midnight or later Saturday (Saturday closing time varies depending on business level)

Accepts: Major credit cards; reservations

Also: Full bar; street parking; no smoking; outdoor seating; children's menu

Chef Isaac Nava gets his name over the door, but La Casa de Isaac in Highland Park is a real family operation involving his younger brother, Moishe, who runs the front of the house; their wives, Iliana and Lidia; and Mom, Florencia Peralta, who came up from her home near Acapulco to help out. Brothers Israel and David also cook, along with nephew Neftali; another brother, Eli, also lends a hand from time to time.

The Navas opened their friendly, moderately priced Mexican restaurant this spring in the former site of Pancho Viti, just outside the Highwood town limits. On pleasant days, the sidewalk seating might beckon. Inside, the bright, intimate space sparkles with color: decoratively painted orange and green walls, terracotta tile floor, paintings from Highwood's Gallery 57 and traditional woven tablecloths under clear plastic.

The flavors are just as bright, starting with the complimentary warm tortilla chips and tangy red salsa that begin the meal. If you want more elaborate chip toppings, you can order guacamole, served mounded in a stone bowl, or get nachos blanketed in beans, guacamole, pico de gallo, cheese and sour cream, with beef or chicken add-ons available, too.

Excellent ceviche made from tilapia marinated in lemon with tomato and avocado comes piled on a pair of crisp tostadas for a refreshing cold starter. Zesty picaditas estilo Huitzuco (masa boats in the style of the Navas' hometown) offer tongue-tingling guajillo-pepper or green tomatillo sauce over hot oval cornmeal cakes.

Don't make the mistake we did of thinking the $7 taco plate would be small. Three tacos arrive in doubled tortillas laden with meat, shredded lettuce, chopped tomato, diced onion and fresh cilantro (plus cheese if you want it).

Choices include nicely grilled asada (steak), slightly spicy chicken tinga, and earthy lengua (beef tongue), as well as grilled chicken and ground beef picadillo.

"Isaac's Mother's Favorite Enchiladas," a specialty of the house, offers an even heftier portion: a quartet of tortillas packed with chicken in sprightly green tomatillo sauce and covered with slices of fresh avocado and tomato. More conventional enchiladas are also available, in a threesome filled with chicken, ground beef, steak or cheese, with more cheese on top and a choice of sauces, plus beans and rice.

Burritos, chimichangas, tortas and a variety of sandwiches provide other options, along with entree-sized salads such as a garden salad topped with grilled chicken or steak, tomatoes, onions, chopped egg, avocado, asparagus and cilantro.

Larger entrees include the intensely beefy cecina estilo Huitzuco, a thin-cut, salt-marinated steak, served with grilled green onions and jalapenos, warm tortillas, rice and refried beans. Mexican-style rib-eye, skirt steak and hanger steak also supply options for beef lovers.

Seafood choices include chipotle-marinated grilled salmon, a couple of preparations of red snapper and fried tilapia. Vegetarians can find such meatless choices as chiles rellenos with cheese and a burrito stuffed with black beans, cheese, portobello mushrooms, asparagus, zucchini and yellow squash.

Specials frequently supplement the regular menu, and on weekends, the restaurant offers menudo and pozole, traditional Mexican soups made from tripe and hominy.

The bar pours a variety of tequilas and mixes margaritas, pina coladas and other cocktails. House-made drinks also include refreshing jamaica, iced tea made from the hibiscus flower; horchata, a rice-based drink; and licuados, milkshakes in several flavors including tropical fruits such as papaya and mamey.

Among the desserts made in-house, the torrejas, a heavy, Mexican-style bread pudding drenched in cinnamony syrup and served with ice cream, seemed lifeless and soggy; the same combination of flavors works much better in the sopapillas con nieve, a kind of cinnamon crisp also topped with vanilla ice cream and loads of whipped cream. Flan, tres leches cake, fried ice cream and sauteed bananas complete the sweets.

Isaac has cooked in a number of local restaurants, including La Casa del Gordo in Highland Park.

La Casa de Isaac opens daily at 7 a.m. for breakfast (serving several Mexican-style egg dishes) and lunch, but don't plan a Friday night supper there. Dinner is served only Sunday through Thursday and late on Saturday nights. The Nava family closes the restaurant from 3 p.m. Friday until after sunset Saturday in order to observe the Sabbath; in accordance with their faith, they also don't serve pork or shellfish.