Into the jungle

As the first glimmers of dawn lit the horizon on an isolated beach in Costa Rica, a cacophony of guttural yells awakened me from a sound sleep. Certain crazed ax murderers were attacking, I bolted upright in bed.

"Relax," said my husband sleepily. "It's just morning in the jungle."

Forget the metaphorical urban jungle. Outside our door lay the real thing: a tropical rain forest filled with darting lizards, poisonous snakes, brilliantly colored birds, stinging insects and the howler monkeys that gave us our morning wake-up call. Most magical of all were the creatures that emerged each night from the ocean that bordered the jungle: massive sea turtles, creatures that have been roaming the world's waters for more than a hundred million years.

Our stay at the Pacuare Nature Reserve began an expedition that introduced us to two pristine regions of Costa Rica: the coastal lowlands bordering the Caribbean Sea south of Limon, and the inland rain forest of La Amistad Biosphere. The two regions serve as arks for rare and endangered species ranging from the beautiful to the bizarre. For anyone with a yen for adventure, and the intestinal fortitude to weather the howler monkey alarm clock, the trip promised rich rewards.

Living dinosaurs

The heart of the Pacuare Nature Reserve is its pristine stretch of gray sand beach, one of the world's most important nesting sites for endangered leatherback and green sea turtles. From March through September the beach comes alive at night with activity, as the huge reptiles laboriously make their way across the sand to lay their eggs.

The turtles and their hatchlings are watched over by guardian angels in the form of biologists. These dedicated researchers patrol the four-mile beach each night, gathering scientific data and also deterring poachers who are eager to sell the turtle eggs on the black market.

"Volunteers are an essential part of our work here," Natalia Decastro, the research coordinator for the preserve, told us. "They patrol the beach with us and help us collect information on the turtles, and they also help us spread the word on why these amazing creatures are worth saving."

As night fell, my husband and I and our two teenage sons were eager to assist the biologists as they made their nocturnal rounds. With no moon or artificial light, we wondered how we would be able to spot the nesting turtles.

"You'll see," promised Natalia.

About 30 minutes later, we did indeed see. When a thousand-pound creature drags her way across the sand, she leaves a trail like that of a bulldozer. It wasn't hard to follow the track up the beach to where an enormous leatherback turtle was already well into the process of making a nest.

Keeping out of the turtle's line of sight as much as possible, Natalia turned on a red-hued flashlight that cast a muted glow. An animal more than 7 feet in length lay before us, her black carapace dotted with white splotches. Her reptilian head swung slowly to look at us, then turned away. She had the serious business of egg-laying to attend to, and as long as we remained unobtrusive she seemed undisturbed by our presence.

Over the next hour, we watched enthralled as the leatherback turtle used her back flippers to dig a 2-foot-deep chamber in the sand, then laid more than 100 eggs within it. There was a gentle strength about her that was unexpectedly moving, and I began to understand why many native cultures consider these turtles sacred animals.

Natalia measured the leatherback's size, checked her for injuries (sea turtles often run afoul of boats and fishing nets) and recorded her tag number. Then she sat back and simply gazed at the turtle, as fascinated as the rest of us despite her long familiarity with the animals.

"They are the most amazing creatures," she whispered. "Seeing one is like coming face to face with a dinosaur."

The next morning, we got the chance to see the rest of the birth process when we helped dig up a nest from which hatchlings had emerged the day before. The scientists uncover the nests to ensure that all the young turtles within it have been able to make their way to the surface. Typically a half-dozen hatchlings remain buried, but in the fresh air and sunlight most revive.

As we watched, the tiny turtles began to slowly move across the sand toward the pounding surf. When they reached the water we cheered, amazed as the animals fearlessly launched themselves into the waves. Perhaps one in a thousand would reach maturity. We hoped that one of those we had rescued might be the lucky winner in this lottery of survival.

Rain forest reverie

A day later, we arrived at the second destination on our journey, Selva Bananito Lodge. The family-owned resort lies adjacent to La Amistad Biosphere, the largest expanse of virgin rain forest in Costa Rica. Like Pacuare Reserve, the region is a tropical Eden of endangered flora and fauna.

At Selva Bananito (named one of the world's top 10 eco-tourism resorts by Outside Magazine) we would get the chance to safely explore its sometimes daunting landscape.

On our first morning, we watched from the deck of our cabin as the full expanse of the forest gradually emerged out of the misty dawn. The air was filled with a variety of sounds: the buzz of cicadas, croaking of frogs, chirping of crickets and the whistles and hoots of countless birds.

"There's a toucan!" I said excitedly as a bird with a large beak flew by.

At breakfast, our host Sofia Stein recounted the unusual history of the property. First settled by her German immigrant father, the land now is home to a multifaceted operation that includes the eco-tourism lodge, a farm specializing in sustainable agriculture and a nonprofit foundation working to preserve the surrounding rain forest and watershed.

"We feel a strong sense of responsibility for this land," said Sofia, who runs the lodge in combination with her brother Jurgen. "Once you enter the forest, you'll know why this is a special place."

Later that morning I recalled her words as our guide led us across rolling farmland and then into the jungle. Immediately it seemed cooler, as the many layers of dense vegetation moderated the intense sun. Vines hung from huge trees whose tops could barely be seen, while a thick web of plants filled the forest floor. Everywhere I looked I could see another form of life, from scuttling lizards and marching lines of leaf-cutter ants to brilliant butterflies fluttering amid exotic flowers.

As we hiked, our guide pointed out additional wonders of the forest, including brightly colored poison arrow frogs, morpho butterflies whose wings flashed neon blue, and "walking" palms that can move their root systems to seek better light. Everywhere we walked, there was an almost hypnotic, rhythmic buzz in the air, as if the jungle had a heartbeat that pulsed just below the surface.

Over the next four days, we took part in a variety of activities designed to help us learn more about the rich biodiversity of the landscape. On an early morning bird walk we spotted nearly 50 species, including the purple gallinule, chachalaca, white-crowned parrot and the endangered king vulture. Later in the day we took a zip-line to a platform near the top of an enormous mahogany tree in the rain forest, a perch that gave us an up-close view of the rich life that exists in the forest canopy.

Another afternoon found us climbing a 120-foot tree using a rope apparatus attached to a harness. Using an inchworm-like movement, I gradually ascended the tree, reveling in a buoyant sense of freedom as I swung gently in the air.

Each evening, we ended the day with a delicious meal in the open-air dining room of the lodge, its interior lit only by candles. The tropical air felt like velvet against our skin, caressing us with welcome coolness after the heat of the day.

For our family, the highlight of our stay came on the last day, when we spent much of the day hiking in the jungle. The trip was not for the faint of heart or weak of nerve. Along the way we slid down muddy inclines, hacked our way through dense vegetation, forged rushing rivers and were attacked by numerous stinging insects (including a group of army ants that must have numbered in the millions).

At one point I remember standing in a forest glade drenched in sweat, my ankles prickly with insect bites and my legs aching from scrambling up and down steep and slippery slopes.

"I can't remember ever feeling more alive," I told my husband, who grinned in return.

And when at last we reached our destination, a 70-foot-tall waterfall that hung like a shimmering curtain amid the greenery of the forest, I stood in its cascade and whooped with joy. At that moment, I could feel the pulse of the rain forest beating in my body, linking me in some indescribable way to this fierce and haunting landscape.

If you go

Costa Rica

Go: If you have a love for adventure and don't mind getting sweaty

No: If you don't enjoy nature and being outdoors

Need to know: Costa Rica Tourism Board, (866) 267-8274, www.visitcostarica.com

Getting there: Several airlines fly from Chicago to San Jose International Airport in Costa Rica, all requiring at least one stop en route. Transport by van can be arranged through Selva Bananito Lodge.

Where to stay: Selva Bananito Lodge ((506) 253-8118, www.selvabananito.com) offers a seven-night package that includes two nights at the Pacuare Nature Reserve, four nights at the lodge, a rafting trip on the Pacuare River and first and last nights' lodging in San Jose for about $1,250 per person, double occupancy. Transfers, lodging, tours and most meals are included.

Turtle season: The turtle nesting season runs from March through September (leatherbacks from March through June; green turtles from July through September).

Climate: The weather in Costa Rica varies according to elevation and location. The coast is warm and tropical, with lower temperatures inland, especially in the mountains. At Selva Bananito Lodge, temperatures are typically in the 70s. December through April is the dry season. From May through November, rains generally come in the form of afternoon showers.

What to pack: Bring clothing that dries easily, including lightweight hiking pants that protect against scratches and insects.

-- Lori Erickson