Global fare, intimate setting a win-win situation at Between

As unassuming as it is from the outside, the interior of Between Boutique Cafe & Lounge -- a dining and drinking destination off the beaten path in Wicker Park -- is like something out of a romance novel.

A Valentine's Day destination in the making, the full-fledged red space is low-lit with thread curtains enveloping private nooks, crimson-washed, exposed brick walls and plenty of plush, canoodle-worthy seating.

The warm red glow is furthered by chandeliers of the same color, which are offset by feathery white pendant lamps and whirling lighting sculptures that illuminate seating below. Candles flicker on tabletops, offering an intimate feel, and conversation-friendly, hip-hop tunes keep things upbeat.

The place is from Carl Anderson, who co-owns it with his wife, Lulu. Anderson clocked time with Wolfgang Puck catering; the food comes from Eastern Indian chef Radhika "Rad" Desai (formerly of Vermilion).

The concept, which is a familiar one by now, is small plates. Here, though, they're wildly global (and highly seasoned) with influences that range from Indian to Dutch, Latin and Moroccan. Moreover, they offer a keen nod toward comfort food -- in unexpected ways.

The array of finger-friendly foods is a great place to start, whether you're munching with friends or a loved one.

We dug the cumin-dusted chicken atop peppered chorizo waffles, which were finished with a sweet, savory vanilla-saffron cream sauce; it's soul food with an inviting (even surprising) twist.

Crunchy, sweet panko and cornmeal-coated Vidalia onions, on the other hand, get a super-garlicky zap when accompanied by cilantro-garlic cream sauce. (When ordering the latter, remember to bring your toothbrush.)

Other utensil-free noshes include Belgian meatballs in nutmeg-kissed tomato sauce, baturas (leavened bread) stuffed with shiitake, spiced ground beef and scallions with hoisin-ginger vinaigrette, seared tuna sandwiches with orange-black pepper aioli, and shrimp and chorizo skewers with roasted garlic-yellow lentil ragout.

Among the forks-requisite dishes, the lobster trifecta is a standout. Its namesake ingredient appears in a tender maki roll with mango rice; in velvety, curry-infused lobster bisque; and in a risotto cake with wild mushrooms and memorable, peppery truffle aioli.

We also enjoyed the duck confit-filled dumplings -- or, Duck, Duck, Goose, as it's called -- backed by sweet-tart gooseberry jam.

Toasted sesame tuna tartare and herby beef carpaccio make bedfellows with wasabi cream, cilantro vinaigrette and parmesan toast. Shrimp, served with cucumber-daikon salad, takes on some sweet heat when lacquered with garlic, curry and honey sauce.

A vegetable torta, fluffy with egg custard, gets color and flavor from an array of cheeses, spinach and wild mushrooms, while sea scallops are crusted with herbs, pan-seared and served with cilantro-caper butter, fingerling potatoes and wilted spinach.

Rounding off the options are dishes such as potato-filled coconut crepes with mustard seed oil, manchego cheese and roasted peanut brown butter; a green salad with candied cashews, caramelized onions, avocado and mushrooms served with a goat cheese toast; and avocado-almond gazpacho with red chili.

Given the high-drama nature of the space, it's key that desserts stand up to the rest of the offerings. There's no doubt that the cinnamon-apple French toast with cinnamon ice cream and sweet caramel-apple sauce is up to the task.

The tart with green tea custard and vibrant mango-blueberry "salsa" was good, too, although the memory of it didn't linger once we were done.

Although it opened as a BYOB venue pending its liquor license, the go-ahead recently came through. So, you can expect a boutique selection of wine, a limited beer list and booze-infused bubble teas and creative cocktails.

Mind you, you can expect to pay kindly for all of this decadence. Bills easily soar to $75-plus with the order of a couple of plates and a handful of drinks.

Depending on how you feel about communal dining, it's an indulgence or an all-out price gouge. But because we tend to enjoy the social experience, we felt, overall, the dishes -- both in size and scope -- warranted the price tag.

Despite the glamorous vibe and general aura of the place, Between's service is surprisingly welcoming. For example, when the fringed nooks aren't reserved, patrons can feel free to grab a seat -- a refreshing fact in a city riddled with VIP spots.

All in all, it's a win-win situation: The sultry experience gets a big thumbs up, while the food takes a familiar concept to interesting heights.

Between Boutique Cafe & Lounge

1324 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago, (773) 292-0585

Cuisine: Eclectic small plates

Setting: Romantic red den with lounge-like seating and late-night eats

Price range: Small plates $5 to $18; desserts $9

Hours: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Sunday through Friday; 4 p.m. to 3 a.m. Saturday

Accepts: Major credit cards