Meaty makeover

When I see restaurants with names such as Brio Tuscan Grille and Five O'clock Steakhouse, I know what cuisine to expect. But the rocky sign on Algonquin Road announcing ZED451 stumped me.

No "fish market" or "steakhouse" or "Indian buffet" attached to the moniker to give a clue. Probably because "Brazilian-inspired dining with an exciting selection of seasonal sides" didn't fit on the sign.

ZED451 transformed quietly from Sal & Carvao, a traditional Brazilian churrascaria (or steakhouse), to embrace a more international approach. Tavistock Restaurants (the management group also responsible for Napa Valley Grille) bought the three area Sal & Carvao restaurants about two years ago with an eye on re-inventing the space. The Schaumburg and Downers Grove locations reopened as ZED451 in June; the Chicago space is set to reopen in December.

The Schaumburg space exudes warmth from the outside in. Layered rocks line the entrance and transition to the dining room. Pumpkin, maize and other harvest tones wash over the room. Heavy wood-topped tables provide more than ample space for plates and drinks.

The dining concept remains the same: You pay a flat fee and can eat to your heart's content, or until your pants pop. The challenge lies in not overdoing it at the buffet-style Harvest Table (offering seasonally rotating items) so you have enough stomach space for sampling the hot-off-the-grill meats.

That's not a challenge to be taken lightly. ZED451 tempts diners with an always-changing display of bread, soups, salads and sides.

I mention bread first on purpose. Once seated, a vase-like container of flavorful mini breads arrived for us to nosh on while we decided on our libations. Besides a strong global list of wines by the glass, ZED451 offers a handful of signature cocktails with a strong south-of-the-equator leaning. The Kiwi Basil Martini blends the aforementioned ingredients with gin for a refreshing elixir. Other handmade cocktails include bourbon-spiked Grilled Cherry Citrus Cooler and the lemon-infused Watermelon Mojito. There's also a nice selection of tea and sparkling juices.

Executive chef Bobby Vahrua, who has worked with such culinary stalwarts as Daniel Boulud and Jean-Georges Vongerichten in New York, has crafted a dizzyingly delicious menu. The Chef's Pasta Salad was my favorite, hands down. Tri-colored corkscrews mingle with sun-dried tomatoes, olives, thin-sliced Italian meats and shredded cheese with just the right amount of vinaigrette to keep it together.

The Granny Smith Apple Slaw was another pleaser, with the signature pomme tossed with shredded red and green cabbage and carrots with a tangy dressing and a surprise toasted peanut topping.

Wild mushroom salad, perfectly roasted asparagus drizzled with thyme- and garlic-infused oil, and red potato salad with cherry tomatoes and green beans impressed as well.

The soups, however, didn't come off as strongly. The normally-served-cold vichyssoise was warm.

Round the back of Harvest Table is where you'll find even more breads, all made in-house, the cheese board with selections such as fontina and buttermilk blue, Italian-style sausages and the butters. Oh, the smooth, creamy trio of butters. I went back more than once to smear basil butter on a semolina roll.

The staff gives you time to explore all the Harvest Table options, and chefs occasionally pop out of the kitchen to answer questions and explain preparations. The staff also doesn't rush you; you set the pace of the meal, using smooth stones to indicate when you're ready for the parade of meats to begin. Simply place a stone on the table next to your plate and a black-jacketed server with a hunk of charcoal-fired meat on a skewer crosses the dining room to your table.

Tongs are available for you to grab the meat as it is sliced. Meat too pink or not pink enough? Just ask for a slice from a different part of the chunk.

The swordfish was well-seasoned, but a bit too dry for my liking. However, the garlic steak, filet mignon and rosemary-and-thyme-rubbed rump roast hit the mark, as did the tangerine barbecue sauce, one of three sassy sauces available for dipping. Besides the skewer-roasted meat, they also have marinated chicken legs, short ribs and pork ribs available.

If after multiple trips to the Harvest Table and plates of protein you seek something sweet, ZED451 obliges with a handful of desserts. (Take note that they are not included in the dinner price.)

The Key lime cheesecake boasted a pleasant tang, but when it came to the Chocolate Brownie Supreme, I would have liked a bit more brownie and a little less hazelnut cream and chocolate mousse.

ZED451

801 E. Algonquin Road, Schaumburg; (847) 925-0061; www.zed451.com

Cuisine: Hot-off-the-grill meats and fish with internationally influenced sides

Setting: Spacious, warm room anchored by a granite buffet

Price range: Fixed price $42.50 includes all-you-can-eat meat, fish, soup, salads, sides, cheeses; salad bar only $24.50; desserts $8.50; wine by the glass $7.50 to $11.25

Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday; 4:30 to 10 p.m. Saturday; noon to 8 p.m. Sunday

Accepts: Reservations, Visa, MasterCard, Diner's Club, Discover

Also: Lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday ($24.50 and $18.50); 451 Lounge with signature cocktails; children ages 7 to 10 $21.50 ($12.25 at lunch); children 6 and younger eat free