Suburbanites lappping up Geneva's Urban Grille

With a name like Urban Grille, you're asking for a critique -- especially when you're located in all-out-suburban Geneva. While we're not convinced this buzzing burgeria lives up to it's cityfied moniker, one thing is certain: Suburbanites are lapping it up -- while asking for seconds.

The place is packed, and everyone is gushing about the food (even when the service leaves something to be desired).

Bob and Jeanette DiPasquantonio, owners of the happening spot, wanted to create a modern space --we guess that's where the "urban" comes in -- with affordable, upscale eats. On those counts, they succeed. Avocado and butter-colored walls, flagstone accents and a rocking exhibition kitchen create a high-energy backdrop for the familiar but updated menu.

Tables, which are tightly packed, range from the black linen-topped variety to half-banquettes with dark wood and leather-accented furniture. A distressed concrete floor, wine cellar and high-end wine list complete the experience.

As for the staff, they seem more than a little bewildered by the hordes that have descended. Since the restaurant has been open for a few months, however, we'd expect them to have a better handle on it by now. That being said, there is a lot to love.

One of the most pleasing things about the place is the menu. We found ourselves pulled in many directions, from the vino to the appetizers to the full-on meals. Leaving without eating a burger, well, that just seemed like a crime.

Needless to say, the starters roped us in immediately. (One word of advice: Don't plan on eating light. It's not going to happen -- and it shouldn't.)

We went for the fried pickles, which were dynamite. Bias-cut, tangy-tart and crunchily breaded and served with spicy ranch dipping sauce, they arrived in a fry basket lined with mock newsprint. Deliciously kitschy, yet at a mere eight slices for at $5.95, that's a pricey pickle.

Then there is the shrimp Alyx, a divine invention available in both appetizer and entree portions. It was so good, we'd suggest the latter -- just because. Jumbo shrimp, encased in crisp shallot, garlic and cheese-specked breadcrumbs, are oven-baked and set amid artful whirls of the most addictive, yolk-hued citrus cream sauce ever. If only we could have licked the plate without looking barbaric! Mind you, this dish, too, is a little steep -- the three-shrimp version rings up at $9.95; the entree portion is $18.95. But some indulgences are worth it.

Admittedly after that blissful beginning, it was hard to explore further. If you can muster the wherewithal, you'll find other unusual firsts like Philly cheese steak egg rolls, wood-grilled oysters with chipotle-lime butter, wood-grilled corn covered in garlic butter, lime and cojita cheese and buffalo chicken rangoon. You can nosh on garlic fries, score meat and veggie spiedinis or dig into a cheese plate with grapes, black mission figs and crackers.

The real focus of the menu -- and the reason most people come -- is for the "artisanal" burgers. We feel that term gets thrown around a bit much but, still, we liked what we saw. Seemingly endless with possibilities, you can choose between a blend of sirloin and chuck, turkey, organic veggie, salmon or chicken breast and build from there.

Four sizes of burger -- from an $8.95 ½-pounder to a 2-pound whopper that costs $22 -- get placed on a white, ciabatta or wheat roll and topped with an array of creative ingredients. Included in the price are a selection of two cheeses, two toppings and one sauce. You can add on additional items for $2.50 a pop, an option that easily can soar to the point of being cost prohibitive. Our version went like this: A doughy white roll (substantial enough to stand up to toppings) sandwiched a beef patty piled with Gruyere, fontina, caramelized onions, roasted poblano peppers, fried egg and chipotle mayo. The happy mess never fell apart, which we found impressive.

Everything burger-wise sounded so good it was really hard to decide. Brie, roasted garlic, arugula and chimichurri, anyone? How about jalapeno jack, oven-dried tomatoes and bourbon glaze?

Interestingly, instead of pairing burgers with chips, they arrive on a rectangular plate with a yummy salad of balsamic-cloaked mixed greens dotted with tomatoes.

If you can tear yourself away from the burgers, know that the sandwiches will no doubt deliver, too. We certainly can attest to the yummy Blarney Club, a smoky-good hodgepodge of grilled pork tenderloin, roast turkey, bacon, mayo and hard-boiled egg on seven-grain bread.

Others to choose from include a take on muffaletta, a Cuban, a grouper club and three-cheese grilled cheese. Salads, although numerous, appear to be an afterthought with classic plates -- Cobb, Ceasar, wedge -- listed toward the end of the menu.

Wood-grilled pizzas came off far less interesting than expected. The most appealing sounding of the five: the "Provencal" with béchamel, mozzarella, chicken, oven-roasted potato, spinach, bacon, garlic oil drizzle and herbes de Provence.

Come dinnertime, the menu expands a bit to include half a dozen entrees like flank steak and mahi mahi.

As for drinks, the centrally located wine cellar clues you in about the bar's focus. The list is organized in straightforward fashion with headers like "across the pond" and "stateside." Bottled selections start in the low $20s (but mind you those are few and far between) and rise to around $300. About a dozen each of white and red are available by the glass.

It's hard to save room for dessert, but there are plenty of worthy finales to choose from. Expect to find the ubiquitous molten chocolate cake, and know it'll be a good one. Served warm, it oozes with a melted dark chocolate truffle interior and is paired with Homer's vanilla ice cream. As for the brownie sundae, what's not to love? Benefiting from a Pillsbury chocolate chunk brownie base, it's topped with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, tons of whipped cream and a cherry.

There's an apple tart, carrot cake, cheesecake and a platter of vanilla pound cake pieces, toffee, strawberries and chocolate-covered strawberries with Marsala cream dipping sauce as well.

Really, everything we sampled was great. The problem -- and it was a big issue--was the service. Our finished appetizer plates were looked at again and again but passed by. We even went so far as to place them on the far edge of the table, to no avail. Our drinks were never refilled. To our left, a table received one of two desserts ordered. When that one was finished, the server said she'd go check if the second one was ready yet. They, by that point, opted to decline. To our right, a party of two never even received menus or silverware. Regardless of how busy a place is, there is no excuse for such oversights.

We hope Urban Grille finds a way to better handle the crowds that adore it. It'll make a largely enjoyable dining experience a great one, one that's worthy of repeat visits.

Urban Grille

524 W. State St., Geneva, (630) 262-0100

Cuisine: Design-your-own burgers

Setting: Contemporary and casual, yet upscale, eatery with an open kitchen

Price range: Starters $4.95 to $11.95; burgers and sandwiches $8.95 to $22.95; entrees $18.95 to $35.95; desserts $5.50 to $7.50; wines by the glass $7 to $13.50

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

Accepts: Major credit cards

Also: Reservations for parties of 6 or more; bar open until 2 a.m. daily