Quincy, Ill., offers lots of holiday lights -- and delights

Quincy is a Mississippi River town that is embracing gentrification gracefully.

Tucked amid a wealth of 19th-century architecture, you'll find made-over lofts and other condo developments, along with a new wine bar, sushi bar and, overlooking the river, a Microtel Inn and Suites (part of Hyatt's moderate-priced and widely acclaimed international hotel chain).

You'll discover splendid examples of adaptive-use architecture. Look for Tiramisu, a stylish trattoria housed in an old casket factory, and Busy Bistro, occupying a historic building that many locals remember as the home of Busy Bee Mercantile, a family-owned department store.

Downtown Quincy offers bars with weekend jazz (on Fridays at Busy Bistro) and Third Thursdays shopping, with stores extending their evening hours. There's even a leading-edge culinary school where you can learn how to create holiday cuisine on a budget (Dec. 1) and how to make edible gifts for the holidays (Dec. 7).

On the other hand, Quincy is something of a time-warp town. You can get a cup of coffee for 25 cents (recently hiked -- horrors -- from 16 cents) at Maid Rite, a local diner, and neon blue loaner bicycles are free from six locations. You can also pick up a passport for complimentary admission (one adult per group) to Quincy's nine museums, including an art center, a Moorish-style mansion and museums devoted to antique autos and various conflicts involving the U.S., from the Civil War to Desert Storm.

Quincy (pop. 40,366), famous for its eclectic architecture, contains virtually every style popular within the U.S. from the Civil War through the turn of the last century. In particular, it preserves a remarkable number of pre-Civil War buildings, with many Federal and Greek Revival-style mansions dating from the 1830s. Of particular interest are the four corners of the intersection of 16th and Maine streets. Described by National Geographic as the "most significant architectural corner in the United States," it showcases Greek Gothic, Victorian and Queen Anne styles.

Quincy enjoys dressing up for the holidays, using candles and luminarias to show off its historic mansions. Highlights are John Wood Mansion Christmas Candlelight Tours (Dec. 8, 9, 28 and 29), Quincy Museum Christmas Open House (Dec. 9) and Quincy Preserves Christmas Candlelight Tour of private homes of architectural and/or historical significance (Dec. 9).

One of Quincy's biggest yuletide draws is the Avenue of Lights, a two-mile-long display of animated lights in Moorman-Wavering Park (Thanksgiving through New Year's Day). It incorporates more than 2 million lights and more than 100 display groupings. Featured displays include Santa's workshop, animated gingerbread house, jack-in-the-box, train, rocking horse, reindeer, steamboat and Nativity scene. Recent additions include a snowman tipping his hat to all who pass, Cinderella's Fairy Godmother changing a pumpkin into a carriage, and Santa and his elves taking time for a round of golf (watch Santa get out of a sand trap).

A natural phenomenon in the park (or perhaps a supernatural one) is the "Jesus tree." Viewed from a certain direction, this birch tree incorporates a life-size image of Christ holding a lamb. People have traveled from afar to see this "materialization."

Local eateries include The Pier, built on high pilings along the riverfront and a spot to view glorious sunsets over Quincy's three Mississippi River bridges. In winter, a major diversion is watching American bald eagles fish the river. Signature entrees include roast pork chop with a blackberry-mustard sauce, pecan-crusted salmon and Creole-spiced catfish fillet.

Find a quintessential diner at Quincy's Maid Rite franchise. This local institution, begun in 1928 with three tables and four chairs, expanded four times over the years. Try homemade soup, soda-fountain creations, rhubarb pie, bread pudding and signature loose meat sandwich on a bun (sort of like a Sloppy Joe without the sloppiness).

Shopping options include Quincy Steamboat Company, actually a sprawling gourmet specialty shop and cooking school. It invites well-known chefs and food writers to teach classes and stocks an amazing collection of kitchenware that makes it a major stop for gift buying. Choose from stylish pots and pans and amazing gadgets for opening jars and resealing wine bottles, along with Solingen cutlery and dozens of aprons, many with matching towels and potholders. Enjoy a cup of coffee in its leafy courtyard.

Granite Bank Gallery and Espresso Bar was built in 1892 as a bank, a Romanesque Revival building that featured mahogany counters and mosaic flooring. With its metal teller cages still intact, it now showcases the work of local artists and sells wines from around the world and decorative accessories. The building is homes of the Washington Perk Cafe with breakfast pastries, deli favorites, veggie sandwiches and freshly baked desserts.

Lodging choices include Country Inn & Suites -- out among the big-box retailers, but very comfortable, with indoor pool and breakfast that includes breads, pastries, fruit and hard-boiled eggs.

Or check out Hyatt's Microtel Inn and Suites, opening downtown this fall.

If you go

Information: Quincy Convention & Visitors Bureau, (800) 978-4748 or (217) 223-1000, www.quincy-cvb-org; Illinois Tourism, (800) 226-6632, www.enjoyillinois.com.

Mileage: Quincy is about 280 miles southwest of Chicago. Also check out Amtrak service from Chicago, with two daily departures in each direction.

Other upcoming events: Quincy Community Theater's production of "Scrooge, the Stingiest Man in Town," Oakley Lindsay Civic Center, Nov. 29 through Dec. 2; Quincy Symphony Orchestra Christmas Joy, First Union Congregational Church, Dec. 8.

MikeMichaelson is a travelwriter based in Chicago andthe author of the guidebook"Chicago's Best-Kept Secrets."