Macarena Tapas dazzles

When we heard about the opening of yet another tapas restaurant, our hopes weren't very high.

When we heard its name -- Macarena Tapas -- and learned it was located in a highly trafficked strip mall, we all but zoned out.

Sure, the name is schmaltzy -- fingers crossed it's not a reference to the hackneyed dance-song craze -- and the setting is arguably suspect, but a visit proved this small-plates place makes a case for not judging a book by its cover.

Lending authenticity, Spanish guitar music wafts through the space, which is gently lit by bullet-shaped, blown amber glass lights. Barely more than a dozen tables fill the intimate room decorated with distressed, trompe l'oeil-detailed walls.

A small bar, located in the back of the restaurant, is outfitted with a flat-screen TV; more interestingly, these perches afford perfect views of chef John Borras at work.

Borras studied with the Le Cordon Bleu program in Chicago and at the Etoile culinary school in Venice. He went on to study with Ferran Adria, who is considered one of the world's best chefs, in Spain. Add that to the fact that Borras is the former partner and executive chef of 1492 Tapas in Chicago, and he once directed the culinary team at the Museum of Science and Industry.

Cred is great. But it takes looking at the menu to realize the restaurant truly aims to be a step above its competitors. There are plenty of tapas dishes synonymous with the dining experience, but there are some really unusual flavors at play, too. In the end, that was what dazzled us.

Unlike many tapas eateries, entrees are not emphasized here. Aside from the large selection of hot and cold plates, there are only two: vegetarian and seafood and chicken-loaded paella. We stuck with the tapas dishes since there were so many interesting ones to choose from.

The lomo embuchado is a great way to start things off. A fan of thinly sliced, paprika-cured pork mingles with a mound of marinated raisins with a sprinkle of toasted pine nuts and a generous drizzle of balsamic glaze. Sweet, salty and chewy, each component was as enjoyable on its own as it was piled on a piece of bread.

Since no tapas dinner is complete without garlic potato salad, it was requisite to try the version here. It was a fine rendition with a serious garlic bite and a zap of paprika for good measure.

Also a necessity when munching your way though a meal is an order of marinated Spanish olives. We were fairly ambivalent about these, however, as the varied selection didn't undergo a great transformation on account of the "marinade." A few shards of garlic and slivered onions weren't enough to do the trick.

Next up, we tried the marshmallows a la Napoleon. Proving the kitchen is about more than cranking out the classics, this unusual dish consisted of Manchego crisps, which sandwiched two large marshmallows. The plate was finished with balsamic and berry sauces, resulting in an unusually intriguing play of sweet and salty flavors.

Additional cold tapas plates range from Serrano ham with tomato bread to a smoked salmon platter and marinated asparagus and piquillo peppers with Manchego cheese. While some plates come off as fairly predictable (shrimp cocktail with pimento sauce), others are quite surprising (chocolate-covered shrimp).

Another dish of note -- and this one should be snagged when it's available -- is the mango "caviar." While not really caviar at all, equally stunning results are achieved by combining the fruit with an aspic-like ingredient and shaping it into mini-balls. Served in a tin with a demitasse spoon, it requires labor-intensive preparation and is a particularly indulgent treat for diners. Adding to the allure, the restaurant touts this is one of only two places in the world where the dish is served.

The hot side of the menu likewise contains both classics and trailblazers.

The chorizo empanadas with a super-crisp shell arrived with a pink-hued, roasted pepper aioli for dipping, while bacon-wrapped shrimp rested in a pool of pimento sauce. In both cases, the individual bites received their own compartmentalized trays -- a nice touch in terms of presentation.

As we sampled our way through the menu, we zeroed in on this great finger food: seared beef tenderloin on a pepper sauce-slathered garlic crostini with a slice of piquillo pepper and drizzles of balsamic reduction of basil oil.

We were ready to burst by this point.

Otherwise, we would have gorged on the bacon-wrapped, goat-cheese-filled dates, blackened salmon with yogurt-orange sauce, sautéed portobellos with spinach and blue cheese or shrimp and scallop skewers served on a bed of black rice.

Desserts, presented tableside on a tray, are ever changing, so don't get too attached to any one thing. We loved the simple cup of red-wine-poached fruit mounded with whipped cream and the silky, vanilla-flecked flan for its decadent caramel finish.

Spanish wines pepper the drink menu with enough tapas-friendly selections -- think Tempranillo and Rioja -- to satisfy. Fruit-topped sangria is a steal Sunday through Wednesday when red and white versions ring in at $2 a glass. For that reason, we didn't go further to try the raspberry-lime, passion fruit, mango or strawberry varieties.

Specialty martinis (the mainstay at any restaurant these days) are another way to wash down a meal. Look for key lime, cosmo, sour apple and pomegranate.

We really dug the homespun feel of the place. One server was working the room when we dined, so she was a little crazed; overall, she juggled things well. She was a wealth of information when we had questions, but gave us the space needed to nosh our way privately through a meal.

We worry a bit that the restaurant's site will cause it to be overlooked by those who would most appreciate the creativity at work. So, here's our call-out to foodies to make the leap -- and look past the restaurant's unfortunate name.

Macarena Tapas

618 S. Route 59, Naperville; (630) 420-8995

Cuisine: Tapas

Setting: Dimly lit, romantic spot with distressed walls and flickering candles

Price range: Hot and cold tapas $4 to $8, paella $9 to $14, dessert $5 to $7

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday

Accepts: Major credit cards