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Flatlanders a pub with pizazz

There's a lot to be said for pubs with good, decently priced food that don't sacrifice brew quality for culinary pizazz. Per its local buzz, Flatlanders Restaurant and Brewery pulls off such a fine balance between quality homemade beer and delectably diverse comfort food that it's almost a shame the word "bar" comes with dank associations. Flatlanders is anything but dreary, and though the random sports-watching barfly can be found bellied up to the place's designated "bar" section just beyond the front doors, the main room's uber-cozy dining section gives beer snobs, happy-hour partiers and weekend loungers enough options to want to spend the whole evening here -- and to stick around later to see the band.

Motif: One bustling fireplace plus a front-seat, fire-side table, times dozens of wood-edged accents and the accessibility of a centrally located bar equals a warm refuge from winter winds -- with food! Gourmet-stuffed burgers and barbecue chicken sandwiches to be exact, aromas of which tap your hunger all the way from the car. It should be noted that while the bar (Flatty's Pub) and dining rooms are technically separated, there's no real reason to draw a line between the two. The bar might as well be renamed simply "band room," considering the beer flows just as plentifully and just as socially in the both spaces. Of course, no matter which seating area you choose, the wood-laced tables and booths should wrap you up into the pub experience just fine. And if the smiling hosts and glowing foyer are any judge, Flatlanders essentially gets visitors at hello from the moment they walk through the door.

Crowd: True to unspoken dining rules and pub hours, regulars and stragglers vary based on time of day. After-work crowds can be found throwing back a few at the bar just as well as families show up around dinnertime and couples are spotted by the fireplace for a nightcap. The vibe seems young and based on the number of beer flights we saw ordered from the main bar, is dotted with many a beer connoisseur likely relieved that microbrews still find a place beyond city lines.

Service: Attentive but not overbearing, even at the dinner table. Our server knew the food and he knew the cocktails, but most impressively, he really knew the beer. We were poised to order a few stouts from the list before glimpsing the beer-flight option, to which our server said he'd pick us a fine selection. He returned with a bevy of dark-brew minis, all suited to our tastes perfectly. How easily the guy could've stared blankly at us as we clumsily nitpicked beers from the brewery's long list. Instead he asked a few preference questions and did the work for us, to enjoyable results. Now that's entertainment.

Liquid consumption: You know how a microbrew unfortunately tastes like a microbrew when it seems overly poignant and washed with an aftertaste? Yeah, Flatlanders' brews don't have that. Six standing offerings cover the traditional gamut, hitting on lagers, ales, wheat beer and a stout. Though two seasonal alternatives -- Helles Bock and Porter for the cold season -- are listed online, our server clued us in to other off-menu options and upcoming varieties. That said, there's no reason patrons shouldn't order shots or bombs or Rum and Cokes. Just know that like ordering a T-bone at your town's favorite steakhouse, Flatlanders' specialty is beer.

Sounds: Flatlanders lines up great local bands as well as they dole out pints. Check out the lineup for the next few weeks: suburban up-and-comers Mer and Dave Tamkin in the next couple weeks and Lucky Boys Confusion on Jan. 25. Original and cover bands hit the stage every Friday and Saturday here. No wonder management created a separate bar area.

Food: Again, this is seems to be Flatlanders' unassuming claim to fame. The food is really good and covers most pocketbooks and tastes, from pork tenderloin cutlets and beef porterhouse to Abe's Honest Ale BBQ chicken and Santa Fe chicken salad. Shrimp capellini looked delicious but the stuffed burger made us drool (sorry veggie-lovers -- the vegetarian pie and portobello burger seemed scrumptious, too). Bleu cheese and garlic stuffed, this burger was cooked perfectly based on our several "medium-well/medium-rare" preferences at the table. No worries about questionable chicken wings or frozen pizzas here.

Parking: Large lot on the side of the building. If you're driving up Old Half Day Road from I-94's Half Day Road exit, don't miss it on your right.

Overall: We came in for a meal and a beer; we didn't know we'd walk into a full-on foodie destination and classy microbrew. Flatlanders truly proved to be the cozy sanctuary that we needed with well-versed service to boot. We can't wait to return during the summer to check out the beer garden out back.

Flatlanders

200 Village Green, Lincolnshire Hours: dining room, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a. m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Flatty's Pub: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday

Web: www.flatlanders.com Phone: (847) 821-1221

Jennifer Williamson serves up a flight of beer at Flatlanders in Lincolnshire. Steve Lundy | Staff Photographer
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