Spats Bar: A bit of sass
Located near the AMC Cantera theater, this bar and live music venue might well be what the neighborhood needed. Located within steps from Buffalo Wild Wings, Spats Bar is an elevated alternative to its neighbors, serving upscale sips and jazzy tunes in a comfortable environ.
From the get-go, decoratively the place departs from the norm. Although it's dotted with framed black-and-white photos of greats -- from John Wayne to Elvis and Bob Hope -- the shimmery gold and plum walls give the space more of a modern-day feel. Exposed ductwork, a well-stocked bar, and a VIP area up front with leather seating and a flagstone fireplace drive the point home.
The drinks, truth be told, are more appealing than the standard menu of bar fare, which is prepared in the kitchen of adjacent Livorno's. We think the actual lure lies with the spot's dueling piano entertainment (thanks to Chicago Dueling Pianos), who take requests, taunt the audience members with North Side-South Side banter and encourage crowd participation.
But, of course, we were here for the food. We began with the mini Italian beef sandwiches, two-inchers doused with sweet and hot peppers on chewy bread. They were fine, but certainly not fabulous. The chili cheese fry platter, topped with melted cheese and no-beans chili, lacked heat. A few dashes of hot sauce helped things along.
Nearly ubiquitous on menus these days, Spats sports mini burgers as well as subs (both big and mini), Italian sausage and peppers and a beer-battered onion ring platter with Thousand Island dipping sauce.
Entrees and sammies continue the familiar theme. We opted for the steak burger, and it was a safe bet that delivered no surprises and was topped with lettuce, tomato, mayo, ketchup and red onion on a cornmeal-dusted Kaiser roll.
Sometimes that's a good thing. But in the case of the bland, by-the-books cavatappi with tomato cream sauce, we were left cold.
So, we suggest following the straight and narrow: perhaps a chicken club sandwich topped with bacon; a Mexican-inflected breaded steak on a soft roll with avocado and pinto beans; or an Angus steak sandwich on French bread with grilled onions and green peppers.
There are two upper-crust choices as well: honey-lime-glazed blackened salmon and grilled sirloin. These, presumably, help justify offering pricey beverages made with Stoli Elit.
On the lighter end of the spectrum, there are a handful of salads (chopped chicken, Greek and a Caesar) as well as a daily selection of soup or chili.
Desserts are nothing to write home about. The bread pudding with pineapple-rum sauce was as dry as the cream cheese frosting-topped chocolate cake with Chambord sauce. Skip them, and head elsewhere for sweets.
In the end, it's the booze and tunes that will likely get people in the door. Premium liquor -- think Ciroc-based martinis, single malt scotches and Fat Tire drafts -- are the draws. We assume the lively service is, too, though we found it a bit too promotional. On our visit, the bartender was goading patrons into having another drink.
The bottom line: Come for the live acts, stop in for a drink after a show or meet up with friends when you're looking for a place to chill out. If you're hungry, know there is enough on the roster to sustain you.
Spats Bar
28331 Dodge Drive, Warrenville, (630) 393-0800, spatsbar.com
Cuisine: Pub grub
Setting: Stylish, night clubby spot in a strip-mall locale
Hours: 3 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Thursday, 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday, noon to 2 a.m. Saturday, noon to 1 a.m. Sunday
Price range: Appetizers and platters $5.95 to $18.95; soups and salads $4.50 to $8.95; sandwiches and entrees $16 to $30; dessert $3.50 to $4.50
Accepts: Major credit cards