Ruth's Chris raises steaks with decadent menu

In its third Illinois location, which opened in late November, Ruth's Chris Steak House brings the suburbs a formidable franchise established more than 40 years ago in New Orleans. Located in the Arboretum of South Barrington, an 86-acre open-air mall, the steakhouse had already hit its stride when we stopped by about three weeks after its grand opening.

The expansive space is well utilized, from the welcoming leather-clad lounge and the well-spaced bar with high chairs and plush couches to the large dining area divided into secluded booths and private rooms.

Heavy wood accents framed by the grandiose high ceilings and walls made up of wine bottles dominate the décor as you gaze up, while a subdued but thick carpet meets your gaze should you glance down.

The night we dined, executive chef Joel Hassanali had a few tricks up his sleeve, as fresh and decadent seemed to be two things he had in mind when executing the solid menu.

We wasted no time in starting things off with the Bourbon Street Manhattan (Gentleman Jack whiskey, sweet vermouth and Southern Comfort liqueur, with a cherry on the bottom). Nothing is small here, and the cocktail, with its unmistakable sweet-and-sour combination, was no exception.

The seared Ahi tuna appetizer, its skin just barely having touched the pan and its flesh a flushed red, was dipped in a ginger, mustard and beer sauce. It tickled the palate, opening up the appetite in anticipation of the heavier meal that was to follow.

The a la carte menu boasted the classic chops including filet, ribeye and porterhouse, as well as freshly prepared crab, lobster and shrimp. Veal, chicken and lamb dishes added to the range.

We opted for the more classic choices of a surf-and-turf and a ribeye. The former consisted of a petite filet (a 4-ounce delight of superb quality) and a fresh lobster tail, stuffed with crab and buttery green herbs.

The ribeye came out perfectly marbled for flavor, medium rare on the inside as requested, and with deep char marks on the outside, still sizzling with the butter poured over it.

We chose the potatoes au gratin as one of our sides. Served in a cream sauce and topped with melted sharp cheddar, it was a tad too runny for our taste. In hindsight, we should have known better and gotten the pecan-crusted sweet potatoes instead. The other side dish we ordered was the broiled tomato, a whole beefsteak tomato sliced in half and caramelized with a touch of sugar. We paired it all off with the Argentinean Malbec, which in true South American form offered ample bang for its buck.

As if the meal weren't sinful enough, we ended it with the chocolate sin cake, a rich and heavy flourless chocolate and espresso creation garnished with a ripe raspberry.

Throughout the meal, our server ensured we were well taken care of and the manager stopped by for a friendly chat, rounding out the impression that although the restaurant has the aura of the old-school institution that it is, it is coupled with the sweetness of the new kid in town trying to make a good impression.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. Our aim is to describe the overall dining experience while guiding the reader toward the menu's strengths. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Ruth's Chris Steak House

Facts: 100 W. Higgins Road, South Barrington; ruthschris.com; (847) 551-3730

Cuisine: Steakhouse

Setting: Posh and dimly lit, with lots of oak - the classic steakhouse approach

Hours: Dinner only; 5 to 10 p.m. daily

Price range: Appetizers $9-$14; entrees $15-$85; desserts $6-$9