Bigby's Pour House offers wine country experience in Addison

If you can't get to Napa Valley for a wine country vacation this summer, put Bigby's Pour House on your list of staycation destinations.

This new eatery and wine shop in Addison, just off I-355, provides a comfortable atmosphere and knowledgeable staff with which to explore wines from around the country and around the world while noshing on cheese and Italian favorites.

The wine bar is the dream of Itascans Elmer and Phyllis Millikan, and the touches and care they've put into the new venue will leave you dreamy before you've had your first sip of Zinfandel.

Walk into the spot off bustling Lake Street and you find yourself transported to a tasting room, the type you might stumble across in Paso Robles or maybe even Tuscany.

In an effort to be "as green as we can," Elmer Millikan says they've used reclaimed wood throughout the space. The bar is made of 400-year-old American black walnut; white oak from Wisconsin covers the floor; and the cedar shingles over the bar were recycled from a barn. Tables as well have been crafted from reclaimed wood. The effect is a warm and unpretentious room that invites guests to relax and lose themselves for a time. If reading the 200-plus labels or browsing among the wine paraphernalia doesn't provide enough entertainment for you, the few TVs probably will.

Unpretentious describes the menu and the wines as well.

Clearly more attention has been paid to building the wine selection than the food selection, with just a handful of items offered as tapas, pizzas, big bites and desserts. Yet some of those selections are outstanding. While not filled with the most exotic choices, the cheese plate is a bountiful bargain brimming with grapes, apples, nuts, breads and crackers. Presentation wise, the cheese cubes and slices look like they could have come from the Jewel refrigerated cases, not quite the array of artisan cheeses I've found at similar spots. The Tuscan Delights platter reminded me of appetizers from a Pillsbury Bake-off but the homemade dough oozing with Cheddar and apple-smoked bacon certainly was a winner. I did say unpretentious, right?

That same smokey bacon shows up on the pizza menu, or you can opt for a traditional fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil pie. New to the menu is a New World combo of apples or pears, layered with provolone, honey, walnuts and blue cheese.

Heartier appetites won't be disappointed in the mostaccioli or braccioli, a tender beef roll topped with cheese and spunky tomato gravy. The entrees are solid, not superior; they're the wines' sidekick, not an equal partner. Desserts, too, are yummy, but not made in-house and it was bit disconcerting to see the server heating our chocolate lava cake in the microwave. (I've since been told the microwave has been relocated from the bar to the kitchen, so they don't spoil the illusion.)

Millikan said there are plans to add a bruschetta bar and spice up the menu with homemade mango chutney and other sauces.

Now to the wines. With 30 some bottles available for sampling by the glass everyone will find something palate pleasing. Reds, white and sparklers from South Africa, New Zealand, Australia, South America and the United States take up most of the bins with a few Old World styles thrown in for good measure.

I love the idea of ordering wine flights - a group of four or so wines connected in some way - and Bigby's changes the selection of flights and wines available by the glass every two weeks so there's always something new to try.

On the current flight menu there are three sweeter whites, for example, for $13.99. A flight of bold reds will set you back $24.99. For a reasonable $10 you can put together your own mini tasting (3-ounce pours) of any three wines.

While there's not a classically trained sommelier on hand to advise you, the wine descriptions on the menu can help you whittle down your selections. Or ask the friendly and knowledgeable staff for a little guidance. I felt like I was hanging with friends discussing wine instead of being talked down to in any way. Should you taste something you really like, you don't have to go home and search the Web trying to find it. You can buy it on the spot, like we did. Order a case and get a discount.

Besides wine, Bigby's has 30 small-batch and harder-to-find beers available for purchase with dinner or retail.

<p class="factboxheadblack">Bigsby's Pour House</p> <p class="News">1700 W. Lake St., Addison</p> <p class="News">(630) 773-1050</p> <p class="News"><a href="http://www.bigsbyspourhouse.com" target="new">bigsbyspourhouse.com</a></p> <p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> American and Italian</p> <p class="News"><b>Setting:</b> Casual wine country tasting room</p> <p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday; 1 to 11 p.m. Sunday</p> <p class="News"><b>Price range:</b> Appetizers $5 to $10; pizza $8 to $12.50; entrees $8.50 to $13.50; dessert $5 to $8; wines by the glass $6.99 to $9.99</p>