Lifestyle

Agio Italian Bistro delivers slice of Italy in Palatine

Posted September 28, 2009 11:00 pm

By Deborah Pankey

Bruschetta is prepared three ways at Agio Italian Bistro in Palatine. Bill Zars | Staff Photographer

No matter where I'm at - the school, the Y, the grocery store - people stop and ask me about Agio Italian Bistro, which opened in Palatine earlier this year.

Diners and barflies who frequented Slice of Chicago, a pizzeria and late-night hangout, have been sharing their excitement that the popular pizza was back (even if available only as takeout) and eager to get a taste of this new spot built on the site of the old restaurant.

Owners Joe and Mary Barrutia are living up to their promise to deliver modern twists on regional Italian fare in a warm, if even a bit supper-clubby atmosphere. The dark walls, vinyl chairs and dart boards that crowded Slice of Chicago have given way to comfy booths, upholstered chairs, a glass-walled wine room and a hip bar area where you can sip cocktails and nibble appetizers while waiting for a table. Instead of up-and-coming bands providing the night's soundtrack, Sinatra and soft rock lilt from the speakers, barely audible in the bustling dining room.

Agio gives diners plenty to buzz about. I recommend discussing your menu choices with your dinner pals so you all can eat family-style and sample a wide variety of dishes crafted by chef Marc Montagna (formerly of Bistro Kirkou and Bistro 22).

The appetizer menu lists standards like fried calamari and bruschetta (though here there are three variations) so branch out and try the eggplant Parmesan. Montagna's crispy fried yet tender eggplant planks layer with ricotta and a mild tomato sauce. I promise you won't miss the deluge of cheese that usually coats this classic dish. (Yes, it is also available as an entree, if you think you can handle it.)

Classic Caesar and Caprese salads are on the menu as well with a spinach and goat cheese plate and an asparagus and crab version mixing things up. The asparagus comes dressed with a bright lemon salad and can be shared among two.

This might sound crazy, but I shy away from pasta at Italian restaurants. Pasta I can make at home (though it usually comes come from a box and covered with sauce from a jar), so I lean toward dishes I'm not likely to make in my own kitchen. Like risotto and veal.

I dug into a helping of risotto, appreciating the time and patience it takes to achieve the perfect balance of creamy sauce and al dente grains. The dish starts with the traditional slowly simmered rice and Montagna stirs in wine and seasonal vegetables - asparagus and mushrooms on my visit - to create one heavenly dish. Veal Marsala is another dish I don't tackle at home so I reveled in the just-sweet-enough sauce and tender veal cutlets.

Agio offers a host of other non-pasta options including three more veal preparations, a filet served with a mound of garlicky potatoes and green peppercorn sauce, tilapia on a bed of spinach swimming in a saffron sauce and mahi-mahi served puttanesca style with capers and black olives in a light tomato sauce.

If you must order pasta, Agio happily obliges.

Potato gnocchi lightly crisped with pancetta, sausage and mushrooms in a creamy tomato sauce are delightfully tender. The rigatoni with eggplant, fresh tomatoes and aged ricotta makes a hearty vegetarian meal; order a side of the moist, herby meatballs and you're guaranteed enough leftovers for tomorrow's lunch.

Agio's wine room is stocked heavily with Italian vintages, with some California Cabernets and New World whites sharing shelf space; more than a dozen are available by the glass.

The restaurant has space available for private parties and a quaint outdoor patio done up with little white lights and decorative heaters so you can still enjoy a few more weeks of alfresco dining. Agio also has its first wine dinner scheduled for 6:30 p.m. Oct. 13. Five courses will be paired with wines from Ferrari Carano.

Pasta offerings include Rigatoni alla Siciliano at Agio Italian Bistro in Palatine. Bill Zars | Staff Photographer

Chef Marc Montagna oversees the kitchen at Agio Italian Bistro in Palatine. Bill Zars | Staff Photographer

Rich fabrics and dark woods warm the dining room at Agio Italian Bistro in Palatine. Bill Zars | Staff Photographer

Glass walls encase the wine room at Agio Italian Bistro in Palatine. Bill Zars | Staff Photographer

Agio serves a grilled pork chop with garlic mashed potatoes and marinated grilled zucchini, yellow squash and eggplant with a Gorgonzola sauce. Bill Zars | Staff Photographer

Joe and Mary Barrutia opened Agio Italian Bistro earlier this year on the spot where their former restaurant, Slice of Chicago, once stood. Bill Zars | Staff Photographer

Agio Italian Bistro 64 S. Northwest Hwy., Palatine, (847) 991-2150, <a href="http://agiobistro.com" target="new">agiobistro.com</a> Cuisine: Modern and classic Italian Setting: Elegantly appointed room with spacious bar Entrees: $12 to $28 Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday, 5 to 11 p.m. Saturday, 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday Accepts: Reservations; major credit cards

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