Lifestyle

No bones about it: New St. Charles steakhouse lives up to its name

Posted November 17, 2009 10:00 pm

By Jennifer Olvera Daily Herald Correspondent

Braised beef ravioli with Parmesan cheese is served with brown butter sauce at T-Bones in St. Charles. Laura Stoecker | Staff Photographer

Fahrenheit was good. Really good. But despite its wonderful contemporary cuisine, the restaurant lasted only a few months.

Perhaps it was too pricey in a tough economy, or too ahead of its time. But when we heard T-Bones was opening in its place, the familiar concept made perfect sense. People love a good steak, especially when it means they can come as they are - dressed up or down. Add a wood-burning oven and a setting that's just "urban enough," and suburbanites may feel the love.

Among those involved in the venture are Scott Harris and Helmut Schadinger (Francesca's), chefs Laco Seeber (Coco Pazzo, Café, Don Juan, Francesca's Forno) and Patrick Concannon (Don Juan, Patricio, Francesca's) and partner Lisa Mango.

As one would expect, the setting is fairly clubby - lots of wood trim, gracious banquettes, a stylish bar. And T-Bones' name, of course, does more than hint at what you can expect - although steak is far from the only option. Driving the point home, parts-of-beef wall art dominates one area.

Traditionalists will find plenty to enjoy, starting with appetizers like oysters on the half shell or Rockefeller-style, chicken liver pâté, shrimp cocktail and chilled Alaskan king crab legs. Artichoke dip? Check. Baked goat cheese? You bet.

We decided, wisely, to start with the braised beef ravioli. While not groundbreaking, it's darn good. Topped with nutty brown butter and shaved Parmesan cheese, it's one of the better versions we've indulged in.

A blue-cheesy iceberg wedge is hard to resist, and the classic served here is as satisfying as the next guy's. There are chopped, Caesar and spinach salads, too, as well as a rustic "country" salad with grilled asparagus, Parmesan, baby greens and a fried egg with white truffle oil and lemon vinaigrette.

When it's time to choose main courses, don't skip the restaurant's namesake. Our steak, topped with herb butter, arrived just how we like it: medium-rare, marbled and full of flavor. There are tempting ways to customize steaks; sauces include béarnaise, chimichurri, au poivre and red wine-shallot, while crusts run to horseradish, peppercorn and sweet onion and Parmesan. Taking a page from Wildfire's book, you can get a mini filet trio with different crusts. Or, try getting a skirt steak with caramelized onions.

One of the things we particularly like about this place is you can - but don't have to - spend an arm and a leg. Sandwiches, like the bacon-wrapped, egg-topped burger on a pretzel roll or open-faced crab cake sandwich - are down-to-earth. There are sliders of the filet or burger persuasion, too, as well as a steak sandwich served on an onion roll.

Seafood is featured prominently, and most dishes, like horseradish-crusted Pacific salmon, crab-stuffed shrimp De Jonghe and cedar-planked whitefish. feel standard enough. The swordfish au poive jumped out, though: Its citrusy crust and hearty brandy sauce make it somewhat unusual.

There are more than enough sides, all $5. The Gruyère mac and cheese is worth the calorie pile-on; the same is true of the nothing-like-canned creamed corn. Other add-ons range from twice-baked or mashed potatoes to sweet potato au gratin, truffled fries and Asian-style green beans.

Since portions are large, it's hard to save room for dessert, but the chocolate-rimmed, multi-flavored sloppy sundae is worth it if you did. If that's not your style, there's also cheesecake.

The global wine list is large with a few organic bottles. As for service, it's professional and unobtrusive, while the establishment remains family-friendly.

For all these reasons, we hope T-Bones can thrive where Fahrenheit couldn't.

Warm woods and cozy booths give T-Bones a clubby feel. Laura Stoecker | Staff Photographer

A humorous photo of Lisa Mango and Helmut Schadinger, two of the owners, hangs at T-Bones in St. Charles. Laura Stoecker | Staff Photographer

The braised beef ravioli appetizer is served with a brown butter sauce. Laura Stoecker | Staff Photographer

T-Bone steak, served with herb butter and shoestring potatoes, is a fitting entree at T-Bones in St. Charles. Laura Stoecker | Staff Photographer

Warm woods and cozy booths give T-Bones a clubby feel. Laura Stoecker | Staff Photographer

T-Bones restaurant serves steak, seafood and more in St. Charles. Laura Stoecker | Staff Photographer

T-Bone steak, served with herb butter and shoestring potatoes, is a fitting choice at T-Bones in St. Charles. Laura Stoecker | Staff Photographer

T-Bones 1890 W. Main St., St. Charles, (630) 762-0200, <a href="http://www.t-bonessteakhouse.com" target="new">www.t-bonessteakhouse.com</a> Cuisine: Stylish steakhouse fare Setting: Special occasion-meets-casual, clubby environs Entrees: $9 to $39 Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner 3 to 9:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 3 to 11 p.m. Friday, 4 to 11 p.m. Saturday and 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday Accepts: Reservations; major credit cards

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