Low suds detergent must be used in front-loading washing machines

Q. We have owned a Whirlpool front-loading washing machine for three years. Just recently, the discharge water from the first washing has had a very bad odor. Any idea what could be the cause of this? My wife does not use the HE detergent like the book says, but she uses less than the amount we used in our old top loader. She keeps the front door open between washings. I also heard of a class-action suit against LG front-loading washing machines. I thought the problem had to do with mold forming in the rubber door gasket. Can this gasket be removed for cleaning, or do I just clean it the best I can while on the door? The manual says to use a "cleaning" cycle once a month. What is this cleaning?A. I do not understand the connection you make between your Whirlpool front-loading washer and a class-action suit against LG front-loading washers. The gasket of the Whirlpool front-loading washer collects water that can turn sour after a while. This appears to be a particular problem with front-loading washers. Try running a complete cycle with the hottest water, adding a cup of white vinegar. Keep the door open when the machine is not in use to help dry the gasket. You can also buy a special cleaner from an independent appliance repair shop. Appliance manufacturers recommend that only HE low-suds detergent be used, because they don't leave a fatty residue that could be responsible for unpleasant odors.Q. My wife and I own property in North Carolina on which we plan to build a ranch home. The development is close to, but not yet supplied by, a natural gas line. The gas company says it will extend the line if enough people build and sign up for it, but I would rather build with it already available. Knowing that electricity and propane are the current choices for utilities, how would you utilize these sources? Stove, heat pump, tankless water heaters (if possible), clothes dryer, etc., would have to be factored into the decision-making process. Cost of the utilities would also be a major factor. There would ideally be a way to convert to natural gas for the appropriate appliances in the future. Thank you for your reply. A. Under the circumstances, it is probably best for you to select gas appliances that can be converted from propane to natural gas when it becomes available. The heat pump will have to be electric regardless.Q. We are planning an addition to our house, adding a master-bedroom suite above our current living room. We are planning to have bamboo flooring installed in the new bedroom. We are also considering installing the bamboo floor in the new master bathroom. Have you had any experience with bamboo in a bathroom? The bathroom will be used only by my wife and me, so the humidity and moisture levels won't be as high as in a more heavily used family bathroom. An exhaust fan will also be installed in this bathroom. Do you have any recommendations or concerns about flooring a bathroom with bamboo? Also, we will be installing a few new windows and are researching both Andersen and Pella. From the information I have gathered, either of these brands would be a good choice. Any problems that I read about seemed to be due to a poor installation of the window, and not the window itself. Would you recommend one of the brands above the other? Do you feel one has advantages that the other doesn't? A. Any wood floor installed in areas of persistent and considerable moisture runs a risk of abnormal expansion and contraction. However, if the humidity in the room is of short duration (timely use of the fan, opening of a window and leaving the bathroom door open after showering, etc.), the risk is greatly reduced and may not even exist. Your planned usage seems to favor a risk-free installation. As to the window choice, the Andersen 400 series is good, but avoid their 200 series, which is inferior. I understand Pella has made changes to their products after earlier problems, but I am no longer familiar with its products. Besides Andersen, I have had considerable experience with Marvin windows and doors. They are of high quality, the service has been excellent and they are very price competitive. I recommend Marvin products, which I chose to install in a recent addition.Q. My son-in-law was talking about connecting pipes from the fireplace into the house vents to heat the house through the air vents. I do not agree with his idea. I told him that he will only create carbon monoxide throughout the house. I suggested that he purchase a Heatilator and doors to get maximum heat. We would appreciate your thoughts and advice in regard to this proposal.A. How does he plan to do that, and how would he get the heat from the fireplace into the duct system? There is indeed the risk of spreading CO throughout the entire house unless this is done under the supervision and advice of an expert. His local fire department would be a good place to start. When the energy crisis hit us in the early 1970s, a special grate made of hollow tubes looking like machine-gun barrels was sold to transfer heat from the fireplace into the room. I believe a fan was used to "shoot" the heat through the barrels. That is one safe possibility for him, if he can still find those. A Heatilator is a great suggestion and a far more efficient way of collecting the heat from a wasteful fireplace, particularly if used with doors, which come with some models but are extra with others. He could also look into a wood-burning insert if he is keen to continue burning wood, which can get quite old. Or if there is natural gas, or propane hooked into his house, gas-fired inserts are very efficient and a lot cleaner than wood-burning inserts.Q. As a single woman homeowner, I find your weekly home improvement column invaluable. I am curious if you have a TV show or book available, and if you don't - you should! My neighbor (a widow) and I were talking about how frustrating it is to know when to call for help, when to try yourself and where to go for some hands on training. Personally, I would love to know how to change a broken tile, faucet, etc. I'm not looking to replace my roof or do electrical rewiring, but to change out simple switches requires a substantial outlay of money for a $3 part. I know this is not a difficult project, but it could be serious if not handled properly. Home Depot (just to mention one company) has had ladies classes, but they were not hands-on enough. Thank you for the fantastic and frank advice you've given over the years.A. I do not have a TV show, but I have written a book: "About the House with Henri de Marne." available from Upper Access, (800) 310-8320, upperaccess.com and sold in bookstores. It may be useful in answering some of your questions, although it is not a manual of hands-on, do-it-yourself home repairs but an anthology of my columns for over 30 years.There are a number of books dealing with home repairs, but probably the best one is Reader's Digest "New Fix-It-Yourself Manual." You can also subscribe to The Family Handyman magazine, another Reader's Digest product that covers many of the topics you are interested in.Q. Several years ago, we had a company come into our home and spray epoxy paint onto the claw-foot bathtub. It needs to be redone, but I cannot locate anyone to contact. I would appreciate if you could assist in this problem. We had contacted Bath Fitter for a liner, but they were unable to find a pattern to duplicate our particular tub. A. You should be able to find a firm such as Perma-Glaze that handles this process in your Yellow Pages under "Bathtubs Sinks -Repair Refinishing" or online.Q. What do you think of these new storm windows that are on the market these days? Do you think they are as good as the old storm windows of years ago? A. That is quite a general question! Which new storm windows are you comparing to the old ones? If by old storm windows you are referring to those in full-size wooden frames that were hung on hooks and held tight with eye screws, they were supplanted decades ago by aluminum triple-track storms with screens that were installed permanently. The old wooden storm panels were a bear to install, especially on second-story windows, and had to be taken down in the spring to be replaced with similarly framed screens or expandable screens set under the partially open lower sash, which needed to be removed when it rained. Any of the newer storm windows are an improvement over these oldies, and there are great variations in their quality. There are storm windows that are installed outside and others like Magnetite that are installed inside. Modern low-E windows with argon gas may not need storm windows in moderate climates. Triple-glazed windows are available and desirable in colder climates. Interesting product: If you have used regular masking tape to prevent paint from bleeding onto a surface, and noticed that paint had bled under the tape when you pulled the tape off, there is good news for you. FrogTape is said to prevent this paint bleeding from occurring. It is available at Lowe's, Sherwin-Williams and other paint stores. Find out more at frogtape.com. bull; Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. Write to him in care of the Daily Herald, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or via e-mail at henridemarne@gmavt.net.#169; 2009, United Feature Syndicate Inc.