Schaumburg's Sushi Ya exudes sense of calm, touch of Korea

Japanese fare dished up by Koreans is not as strange as it sounds.

For Kyoung and Seoseng Lee, Japanese cuisine has been a family affair. Kyoung's first husband was Japanese and they lived in Kyoto, and she counts three years of sushi restaurant experience under her belt. Seoseng has been working in the sushi business since he moved from Korea to the U.S. in 1980. And Kyoung's son, Joe Kim, is a sushi chef at the restaurant.

With just 1,200 square feet and only fifty seats, little Sushi Ya is a welcome refuge in an area dominated by chain restaurant fare. Food is fresh and expertly prepared, with enough maki options to make a decision difficult and a serene atmosphere that feels more Kyoto than Schaumburg.

Calm and peaceful best describe the setting, decorated by Japanese geisha paintings and shiny black furniture. On an icy weeknight, we find just four staff members (two sushi chefs behind the counter and two servers), making the whole experience a bit like stepping inside the home of a dear friend. "Hi, how are you?" says Kyoung Lee upon our arrival, in a friendly, genuine manner.

For starters, we opt for the edamame, of course, and ask the server for another recommendation. After some discussion she returns and suggests the fire avocado ball.

While devouring our plump and just-salty-enough soybeans, the server proudly carries out an avocado with flames shooting out from both sides. Piles of sugar keep the flames burning until we blow them out. We dig into a scrumptious concoction of tuna, scallion and tobiko cooked with spicy mayonnaise.

This fun treat - enough for two or three people - sets the tone of Sushi Ya: laid-back yet celebratory.

The menu contains enough choices for the novice or newbie, with cooked as well as raw maki rolls and classic Japanese entrees such as chicken teriyaki, tempura vegetable and noodle soup. For the bargain hunter like me, the sushi combo (six pieces of chef's choice and a California roll) hits a solid value at $13.95.

We opt for the sushi combo and the beef bowl, in addition to a spicy tuna roll. Followed by appetizing bowls of miso soup, everything arrives at once, looking like a huge feast we'll never finish. My sushi combo turns out to be enough without the spicy tuna roll, but the latter, prepared with scallions and super fresh cuts of fish, is an extra treat.

My companion finds the beef bowl more than compensatory, with a generous helping of tenderly sliced and marinated beef served atop egg and mushrooms over rice.

For dessert we can't help but try the vanilla mochi ice cream balls. Dense and creamy, this is a perfect ending to a simple but satiating meal. Throughout our stay, the two servers exude friendly, attentive professionalism.

When we leave, all four staff members wave goodbye, making me feel like this is an experience I wouldn't hesitate to repeat.

Sushi YaLocation: 261 S. Roselle Road, Schaumburg, (847) 301-7742Cuisine: Sushi and JapaneseSetting: Contemporary, casual restaurantEntrees: $10.95 to $16.95Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, noon to 9:30 p.m. Sunday. Closed on Monday.Accepts: Reservations, major credit cardsFalse20001248A sushi combo, the fire avocado ball and the fire crunch roll are among the colorful, creative offerings at Sushi Ya in Schaumburg.Mark Black | Staff PhotographerFalse