St. Charles' Isacco offers Italian with a twist

Any time you end a three-hour dinner by doing shots of Grappa courtesy of the chef and owner, who is happily mingling with his guests at the end of his shift, you can be assured a good time was had by all.

That sort of convivial spontaneity is what defines St. Charles hot spot Isacco Kitchen - a modern eatery that whips up dishes from the Northern Italian birthplace of Chef Isacco Vitali. The renowned chef's changing repertoire is also spiked by the sort of culinary accents one acquires after having sailed the world three times over (six years on a cruise ship), together with a couple of solid European residencies added for good measure.

The restaurant, next door to Indian and Nepalese favorite Taste of the Himalayas, was a former barbeque joint that Vitali spotted while driving by one day. The interior is modern European. White walls and ceilings get shots of color provided by local artists' sculptures and abstract canvases. A striking green, blue and black graffiti work featuring a melancholy sailor decorates the women's washroom. And a split canvas in one of the two dining rooms looks like rows of straight, soft-edged ladders in motion - actually a blown-up image of the chef's and his wife's DNA.

We were late for our reservation on a recent Friday night, and despite the fact the place was abuzz with patrons, the polite hosts even let us pick our own table. Our server was thoroughly knowledgeable with a soft spot for perfection - guiding us to a sweet and smooth bottle of red, at the completely acceptable price of $34.

Four meaty lollipops of deliciously crispy braised Kobe beef fritters resting on a spicy salsa verde were the perfect meat on a stick starter - and the world needs more of those. In contrast, the promising-sounding baked fig appetizer, made with goat cheese mousse besieging an onion compote, was a disappointing, watery mess.

Among tempting homemade pasta dishes that included a seafood fettuccine and stuffed tortellini, we went with a plump, golden house-made crab ravioli, surrounded by a couple of juicy shrimp and strands of spinach, all tossed in a light lemon butter sauce. But what made the dish was the completely surprising - and utterly successful - hint of mint.

Upping the ante was the single fish on the menu: A fresh, cream-colored filet of snapper full of rich, buttery goodness, sat atop its perfect mate - a brothy, olive oil vinaigrette-infused vegetable risotto.

Four delicate New Zealand lamb chops on the rarer side of medium were just perfect, interspersed with a ratatouille of vegetables, the distinctly flavored aged pecorino (made from ewes' milk), strokes of balsamic reduction and a potato gratin.

The mini cannoli dessert was requested for its curiosity-inspiring accompaniment of black pepper gelato, a spectacular, exhilarating taste that gathered momentum on the tongue. And, in another display of perfect service, our server subtly added a cannoli to match the number in our party completely free of charge or fuss.

Isacco KitchenInfo: 210 Cedar St., St. Charles, (630) 444-0202, www.isaccokitchen.comSetting: Modern white d#233;cor with blasts of color, outdoor lounge area and a big garden patioCuisine: Contemporary Italian with a global twistHours: Lunch served noon to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Dinner hours are 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday, 5 to 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday.Entrees: $15-24False20001163Cool safron gelato pairs nicely with a mini souffle at Isacco Kitchen.Rick West | Staff PhotographerFalse