Sammy's Mexican Grill and Bar a family-friendly spot on Elgin's west side

One of the first things to catch my eye at Sammy's Mexican Grill & Bar on Elgin's west side was its extensive menu. It's chock-full of classic Latin American dishes, including ceviche, house-made salsa and a wide selection of tacos, burritos, enchiladas and fajitas featuring steak, pork, chicken and seafood.

The kitchen at this neighborhood eatery, family-owned and operated since 2008, also is equally adept at making chimichangas, tamales, tostadas, quesadillas and chiles rellenos. Among its specialty dishes is cochinita pibil, Yucatan-style slow-cooked pulled pork.

Corn chips and a mild salsa were brought to the table while we considered our choices.

Sammy's guacamole, a winning appetizer ample for two, engaged our taste buds from the first bite. The avocado was pounded to an almost-creamy consistency and incorporated with just the right amount of diced tomatoes, onions and cilantro. Among other starters are nachos; four iterations of queso fundido, Mexico's cheese fondue equivalent, including chorizo, steak, shrimp or bell peppers and Portobello mushrooms; and three versions of a quesadilla — flour tortillas filled with cheese and meat, seafood or vegetables.

A full-service U-shaped bar bisects the recently expanded dining room. It stocks more than 80 tequilas, including 14 premium labels, and domestic and Mexican imported beers. While I can't speak about the various flavored margaritas, I can recommend the Perfect Margarita, a refreshing 12-ounce traditional version served on the rocks in a hefty oversize goblet with a salted rim and fresh lime and orange slices.

Service, while conscientious, was a little too speedy. If you seek a more leisurely meal, hold off ordering the entrees until you have completed your appetizer.

Pollo en mole poblano, an old standard often described as the national dish of Mexico, can be a weather vane for judging how a kitchen performs. Happily, Sammy's succeeded with flying colors. Recipes vary, some calling for as many as 20 ingredients, starting with sliced chicken breast and including chili peppers for heat and chocolate to add flavor and dark color to the sauce. Accompaniments included a scoop of Mexican rice, refried beans and three flour tortillas.

My dining companion chose another popular entree, enchiladas suizas and was pleased by the three rolled corn tortillas filled with chicken, served in a light tomato sauce and topped with melted queso Chihuahua, a soft cow's milk cheese from Mexico.

On a future visit I plan to stare down Sammy's Parrillada, an awesome signature dish of steak and chicken fajitas, marinated pork, Mexican sausage, grilled shrimp, prawns, grilled cactus and jalapeño peppers and melted Chihuahua cheese and rice, beans and tortillas on the side. It's prepared and priced for two at $38.

Desserts are few, but one that ranks high in my book is flan. Sammy's interpretation of this consummate custard is beyond reproach.

The family-friendly restaurant is open daily. It offers a complete breakfast menu and diverse fare for the lunch crowd, including a $5 children's menu.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Sammy's Mexican Grill

3091 W. Route 20, Elgin, (847) 622-2020, <a href="http://www.sammysmexicangrillandbar.com/">sammysmexicangrillandbar.com</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Mexican

<b>Setting:</b> Casual storefront eatery

<b>Entrees:</b> $12-$18

<b>Hours:</b> 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily