Finding a standout slaw is a feat for a true connoisseur

There are more cabbage slaws than any other in my salad recipe collection. I love cabbage slaw, especially creamy, mayonnaise-based slaw. Oil and vinegar slaws come in a distant second.

KFC leads my list of favorite commercial, creamy slaws. Unfortunately, duplicating KFC slaw at home remains elusive.

These days, my weekly kitchen to-do list almost always includes making coleslaw, usually about 3 pints. Spooning out already-made coleslaw at dinner is far easier than preparing a tossed lettuce salad every night.

I have been making the same slaw for years until last week when I discovered Andrew Zimmern's Chopped Coleslaw, which is nothing like the slaws I have ever made. Zimmern's a highly respected James Beard Award-winning chef, television personality and author.

Here's the story.

My weekly creamy slaw is seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, stevia and celery seeds. My slaw is slightly sweet and creamy since I use mayonnaise and buttermilk.

Zimmern's coleslaw uses ingredients I never thought to use in a coleslaw: sweet pickle relish, spicy apple cider vinegar and toasted fennel seeds. If you are unfamiliar with fennel seeds, fennel seeds make Italian sausage taste like, well, Italian sausage. And, Zimmern toasts and crushes those fennel seeds. Interesting.

I set out to make Zimmern's coleslaw, but before I did, I needed to learn about spicy apple cider vinegar and how to toast fennel seeds.

Spicy apple cider vinegar is just what it seems, cider vinegar seasoned with hot peppers, such as habanero. I didn't have any spicy vinegar, nor was I going to buy a quart to make this slaw, deciding to add a touch of cayenne pepper instead.

Searching how to toast fennel seeds turned up a short video showing how to do it. They used a stainless-steel pan for toasting; I used my trusty iron skillet. It is easier than you think.

Having resolved those issues, I made a Don-version of Zimmern's coleslaw. Even though Zimmern calls it "chopped," slaw, cabbage and carrots are grated using a food processor or box grater.

My first attempt showed me that Zimmern's recipe produced a lot of dressing. And since I like a slaw dressing with some buttermilk, I reduced the mayo and added some whole-fat buttermilk to my dressing.

Toasting the fennel seeds produced a licorice aroma in my kitchen, making me mildly nervous about its use. Still, I tossed everything together and did as he suggested, refrigerating it for six hours before tasting it.

How was it? Really good, with the fennel flavor subtler than I thought it would be. And I found that the pickle relish added some sweetness and a unique flavor.

Would I make my Zimmern-inspired coleslaw again?

Yes, absolutely.

• Don Mauer welcomes questions, comments and recipe makeover requests. Write to him at 1leanwizard@gmail.com.

Don's No-Sugar-Added Grated Coleslaw

2 cups mayonnaise (I prefer avocado oil mayo)

½ cup whole milk buttermilk

4 packets stevia (equal to about 3 tablespoons sugar)

5 tablespoons sugar-free sweet pickle relish

3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

2 teaspoons celery seeds

2 teaspoons toasted, crushed fennel seeds

1 teaspoon kosher salt (Morton brand)

½ teaspoon black pepper

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (or to taste)

1 medium (about 2 pounds) green cabbage

3 medium organic carrots, peeled and ends trimmed

1 medium red onion, minced

Add mayonnaise, stevia, pickle relish, vinegar, celery seeds, fennel seeds, salt, black pepper and cayenne to a medium bowl, whisking together until combined. Set aside.

Cut cabbage into wedges so that they fit into the feed tube of a food processor. With the medium grater attachment, put cabbage through the food processor (a box grater may also be used). From time to time, transfer the grated cabbage to a large mixing bowl. Using the food processor (or box grater), grate the carrots and transfer them to the mixing bowl. Add the onions to the mixing bowl and combine.

Add the dressing and, using a large rubber spatula, mix and fold together until completely coated with dressing. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Can be served immediately* or covered and refrigerated.

Makes 16, ½-cup servings.

*Zimmern covers and refrigerates his coleslaw for 6 hours before serving.

Nutrition values per serving: 229 calories (88% from fat), 22.4 g fat (3.2 g saturated fat), 5.8 g carbohydrates (3.8 net carbs), 3.1 g sugars, 1.9 g fiber, 1.2 g protein, 0.6 mg cholesterol, 259 mg sodium.

Adapted from an Andrew Zimmern recipe