Good wine: Why it’s great to be a wine buyer in the Chicago area

Buying local is a big deal, judging by the Reader’s “Best of Chicago 2023” poll, which recommends local businesses from apartment finders to vintage clothing.

But when I ask folks, “Where do you shop for wine?” they often reply, “Online.” What’s up with that?

Sure, our vistas lack vineyards, and the nearest winery equipment is produced by Moline’s John Deere. But Chicago traditionally ranks third (after New York City and Los Angeles) in a wine industry that has supported countless Chicagoland families, some — including my own — for several generations. And beyond altruism, if you don’t shop for wine locally, you’re shortchanging yourself, literally and figuratively.

It’s the law

On Dec. 5, 1933, to choruses of “Happy Days Are Here Again,” the United States Congress repealed the Prohibition against alcohol, making the Twenty-first Amendment the speediest change to our Constitution before or since. The Repeal’s various sections granted each municipality power over the sale and transportation of alcohol. While the resulting regulations are a painful hangover for producers to navigate, Chicago emerged with rules that encourage spirited competition.

Have it your way

Do you like the one-stop convenience of picking up wine, olive oil, toilet paper and other grocery items? No-can-do in New York and other states, where wine and spirits may be sold only in stand-alone shops. How about knowing there’s a generally consistent selection at chain stores, wherever you may be, throughout a region? That’s verboten in New Jersey and elsewhere, where owners are limited to one or two locations. What about the varied and exciting product selection that boutique shops tailor to customers’ tastes (i.e., you)? In 17 ABC (alcoholic beverage control) states, wine is selected by state agencies like the one that controls Illinois utilities and is sold in state-run shops.

Where does wine come from?

In non-ABC states like Illinois, alcohol sales are managed by an industry tier called alternatively “distributor” or “wholesaler.” This tier’s primary function is (guess what?) to collect state and federal excise taxes that help fund our government. According to the Illinois Licensed Beverage Association, in 2023, this amounted to $318.1 million. In ABC and many non-ABC states, items are sold under publicly available “post-and-hold” prices, which never vary. But in Illinois, our distributors are allowed to deal.

A penny saved

“Stack ‘em high and watch ‘em fly” is the retailer’s mantra, in wine no less than potato chips. The robust sales encouraged by large displays are supported by deals handed down from distributors through the retailer to you, which might include discounts, rebates, coupons and a variety of free-with-purchase goodies, including corkscrews and fancy gift packs.

À chacun son goût (To each, their own)

“I don’t know what it tastes like” is the main reason consumers give for not purchasing wine. Chicago and many suburbs allow small in-store tastings or major portfolio tastings, so you can try before you buy. Illinois retailers can offer seated wine classes (such as my own at The Chopping Block in Chicago) for in-depth forays into wine knowledge. For an evening of wine and dining, retailers may partner with dining establishments for “winemaker dinners.” Be sure to be part of your retailer’s mailing list to be notified of events and sales.

Fine and rare

Chicago was the first major market to allow wine auctions — including Chicago Wine Company (tcwc.com), Christie’s (christies.com) and Hart Davis Hart (hdhwine.com) — offering wines for speculation and drinking pleasure. In addition, palates accustomed to wine’s top stratosphere may turn to bespoke retailers like Flickinger Wines (flickingerwines.com), a local facility that stores fine collections and resells them, often at unbeatable prices.

‘The middle of everything’

Finally, our central U.S. location makes Illinois a hub for a range of wine importers, offering Chicagoans the first chance at wines from specialty regions, including Austria, Champagne, Greece and Mexico over the years.

Winery-direct shopping offers unique selections, such as mature “library” wines. Other wine websites are convenient. But as a Chicago-area resident, it’s easy to tap into an unparalleled wealth of wine-buying advantages. Just find a retailer offering the kind of service, events and selection to fit your palate and pocketbook. The truckers, accountants, administrators, warehouse workers, sales reps, retailers and all the Chicago-area families of wine — including my own — thank you for your business.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of the Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.