Talking about Cabernet Franc, genetic father of wine we’ll drink tonight
The first guideline for pairing wine and food — and the easiest — is to find common flavors.
For instance, wine made from the grape Pinot Noir often has cherry/berry flavors, making it a match with turkey and cranberries.
Wine made from Cabernet Franc (Cab Franc or Franc in industry parlance) tells you with one sniff what it wants to be served with: herbs and peppers. In the grape’s French homeland, that may mean poulet aux fines herbes (herbed chicken). In Chicago’s international food scene, add salsa verde enchiladas, tolma (Georgian stuffed peppers), pizza with peppers and other popular world cuisine.
But try to buy some! Major retailers list “out of stock.” At industry tastings, I seek out Cab Franc with scant results. Despite the Wall Street Journal article “Why Winemakers … Love Cabernet Franc,” local availability is iffy.
The irony is that Cab Franc is responsible — at least indirectly — for most of the red wine the U.S. will drink today. Cabernet Franc is the genetic father of Cabernet Sauvignon, the world’s most popular red. In the 1600s, when sauvignon cropped up in France’s Bordeaux vineyards, Cab Franc became a supporting player, adding fragrance and complexity to an increasingly sauvignon-based blend that includes Merlot and other grapes. Today, this Bordeaux blend makes up top-ranked reds throughout the New World — notably Napa Valley — with Cab Franc generally playing an uncredited bit role.
To taste 100% Cab Franc, look to the vineyards of Chinon in France’s Loire Valley. Compared to Bordeaux’s powerful tannic wines, the Loire’s cool climate and soils coax pretty berrylike fruit, refreshing acidity and silky tannin from Chinon’s Cab Franc. Ask your merchant to recommend their favorite or ask for:
Chinon, Domaine de Pallus “Messanges,” France (Suggested retail price about $26; distributed by Cream Wine, Chicago): The fragrance of herbs and fresh berries, mineral accents and pleasing tannin make this medium-bodied red a flavorful complement to rich appetizers (including charcuterie), poultry, vegetables (grilled asparagus), lighter meats and rich seafood (grilled salmon).
A cool climate is key to Cab Franc. Sauvignon soaks up the heat, but Franc needs protection under the vine’s leafy canopy against Napa Valley’s near-100 degrees. In contrast, 75 degrees to 85 degrees is the sweet spot for Cab Franc, according to Bree Stock, M.W. of Willamette’s Ltd+ Wines. In Willamette’s gentle fall, Stock opens fruit clusters to the sun, yielding fully ripe fruit flavors at a low alcohol of 12.2% and no harsh green pepper flavors. (In May, on Instagram, learn more about Oregon wine from Bree, the director of education at @oregonwineboard).
Just arriving at our market
2023 Cabernet Franc “Nouveau,” Ltd Wines, Oregon (Suggested retail price $33, distributed by Candid Wine, Chicago): Like Beaujolais — France’s refreshing quaff — whole grape bunches ferment gently under a blanket of carbon dioxide. The “new wine” is bright purple, with enticing pops of fruit and pepper aroma and a long, firm, refreshing finish. At home, Stock complements her Nouveau with smoked ribs or a Moroccan salad of grilled lamb chops served over couscous with olives, preserved lemons and peppers. Serve just cool to the palate.
Cab Franc loves the “cooler by the lake” effect in southwest Michigan’s Lake Michigan Shores region. At Wyncroft, Proprietor Jim Lester adds vibrant, refreshing flavors with clonal selection and limited grape yield. “Clone UCD1, created by the University of California, was the only clone in the U.S. for many years, producing huge crops of pale, green peppery wine that turned many people off,” reports Jim. “I grow Chinon’s Clone 214, and I crop my vines at two tons per acre — below the maximum allowed in a French Grand Cru vineyard.”
Cabernet Franc, Wyncroft “Marland,” Michigan (watch Wyncroft’s website for a September release): This juicy red has flavors of spiced red fruits, herbs and black pepper and a bright, refreshing finish. It is rich in flavor but light in body, making it a rich cocktail and complement to grilled poultry, veggies and light meats, including charcuterie and pate. At home, Lester enjoys his Cab Franc with a stir-fry chock-full of peppers and other veggies seasoned with fresh herbs.
From 6:30-8 p.m. Friday, June 21, join me for “Get to Know Your Grapes” to compare and contrast Cab Francs from Chinon and Michigan, along with two prominent styles of Chardonnay (the Empress of Grapes) and Pinot Noir (the only grape with its own Oscar-winning movie). Held at The Chopping Block (4747 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago), registration is required. For details, visit Get to Know Your Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc (getoccasion.com)
• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and a recipient of the Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award of Excellence.” Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.