Put the power of preserved lemon to work in a chicken and orzo skillet

A recent conversation with Bobby Flay reminded me that you can always find new sources of inspiration if you seek them out. Despite my years in this field, there is still so much about food and cooking for me to explore, be they cooking techniques, dishes or ingredients. And with each new adventure can come a rekindled passion and curiosity to learn and share those findings with the world. This time, what I found was tucked away in a jar of preserved lemons.

Preserved lemons are citrus that have been salted and allowed to ferment for weeks, which softens the rind, mellows the acidity, and transforms the fruit into an ingredient that is savory, sour, salty and complex. “They’re especially popular in Middle Eastern, Indian and North African food, though the cuisine often most associated with them is Moroccan,” recipes editor Becky Krystal wrote. Sure, I’d eaten them in chicken tagines before, but this is the first time I ventured to cook with them myself.

Whenever I encounter an ingredient for the first time, my first step is always to give it a taste. (I also sometimes do this with ingredients I’m already familiar with just to remind my palate of their characteristics.) With preserved lemons, first give them a rinse to remove any excess salt. That initial bite made me excited for a dish — with chicken, pasta and feta — that up until then was only an idea.

Channeling the regions where preserved lemons are popular, this one-pan meal starts with chicken thighs seasoned with cumin and oregano. Once browned, the thighs are set aside, making way to toast orzo pasta until it’s slightly nutty alongside quartered artichoke hearts. Next, stock or broth, half a preserved lemon, and a touch of sweetness in the form of honey join in on the fun along with the browned chicken thighs.

As the skillet simmers, the preserved lemon works to season the entire dish, imbuing the meal with its fermented citrus flavor as the orzo softens and the chicken cooks all the way through. The finishing touch is crumbled feta cheese for a creamy tang on top.

When this idea of a dish became reality, it unlocked a new flavor profile I hadn’t encountered in my own cooking — all thanks to the preserved lemon.

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Skillet Chicken Thighs With Preserved Lemon and Orzo

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves

½ teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon fine salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 to 6 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (2 to 2 ½ pounds total), trimmed of excess fat, if desired

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

8 ounces (1 to 1 1/4 cup) dried orzo pasta

1 (14-ounce) can quartered artichoke hearts, drained

2 ½ cups no-salt-added or low-sodium chicken stock or broth

½ preserved lemon, rinsed, thinly sliced and seeds removed

1 tablespoon honey

Crumbled feta cheese, for serving

In a small bowl, combine the cumin, oregano, garlic powder, salt and pepper. Pat the chicken dry and sprinkle both sides with the seasoning mixture. In a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet or saute pan over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken skin-side down and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Flip, and cook until browned on the other side, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate.

Add the orzo and artichoke hearts to the skillet and cook, stirring frequently, until the orzo is fragrant and lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add the stock or broth, preserved lemon, and honey, and stir to combine. Return the chicken, along with any accumulated juices, to the skillet, nestling it into the mixture skin-side up. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the orzo is tender, most of the liquid is absorbed and the chicken is cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh without touching the bone should register at least 165°F), about 13 minutes. Remove from the heat and let rest for 3 to 5 minutes. (The orzo will continue to absorb the liquid.) Sprinkle feta cheese on top and serve hot, family-style.

Substitutions: For dried oregano, use other dried herbs, or twice as much fresh oregano. For bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, use boneless, skinless chicken thighs. For orzo, use any small pasta shape. For honey, uses agave, maple syrup or granulated sugar. For feta, use fresh goat cheese (chèvre).

Where to buy: Preserved lemons can be found in well-stocked supermarkets, Mediterranean markets and online.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Nutrition per serving (1 chicken thigh plus 2/3 cup of the orzo mixture), based on 6: 526 calories, 35g carbohydrates, 135mg cholesterol, 30g fat, 2g fiber, 29g protein, 8g saturated fat, 496mg sodium, 6g sugar

— Aaron Hutcherson