Do the Mardi Gras polka?!

Mardi Gras parties in the Chicago area don't always ring with shouts of "laissez les bon temps rouler!" While the good times certainly might roll, partiers are just as likely to yell "helau!"

It's "hurray!" in German, the heritage of the biggest, oldest local party, hosted Saturday in Rosemont in the style of the German Rhineland's Karneval.

The last hurrah before the abstemious Lenten season begins on Ash Wednesday, Shrove Tuesday celebrations erupt all over the globe. In a custom dating back to the Middle Ages, one of the biggest is held in Cologne, Germany. Eleven 19th-century immigrants from that region founded the Karnevalsgesellschaft-Rheinischer Verein von Chicago, or the Mardi Gras Society of Chicago.

The group, now some 300 strong, still parties all year round, but its biggest event of the year is Saturday's Karneval Maskenball, or masquerade ball.

"It kind of mixes traditions," says spokesman Hans Wolf of Algonquin, who expects more than 1,000 people, including representatives from some 30 German clubs around the Chicago area. The party is open to the public, he says, but first-timers should expect something more structured than New Orleans-style open parties.

Not that there isn't plenty of hoopla. Masqued and tuxedoed revelers will parade in with floats to the pomp of the Fanfaren drum and bugle corps; watch the routines of the Amazonen dance troupes; dine on German fare; drink beer; dance to German and pop tunes by The Phenix from Chicago and Alpen Echos from Cincinnati; and pay homage to Prinz Eric and Prinzess Esperanza Schleiffer, royalty for the season, who were elected in November and dress in formal uniforms to reign over the group's events.

"You should see some of the elaborate costumes," says Reinhard Richter, the club president. Prizes are awarded for the best costumes, and people go all out, dressing as everything from "Wizard of Oz" characters to sauerkraut and bratwurst.

Don't look for Cajun and Creole specialties at dinner, says Richter -- the piece de resistance will be spanferkel, suckling pig.

Members of the society come from all over the Chicago area.

"Originally, you had to be from the Rhineland and speak German," says Erika Brokerhoff of Palatine. You also had to be male. Brokerhoff's husband, Karl-Heinz Brokerhoff, joined the group in 1966, but women were relegated to an auxiliary until 1980.

Shortly after allowing women to join, the group also relented on the heritage and German-speaking rules, and now members must only pledge to uphold the Rhineland Mardi Gras tradition. Brokerhoff says that while many newcomers are relatives of older members, the younger people bring in friends so the group has become more diverse. In fact, this year's "prinzess" was born in the Philippines.

Gisela Juengling Brandt leads the club's Amazonen, dance troupes of young women ranging in age from 8 to 23. Anyone can join, and the members often stay 10 to 15 years, rehearsing weekly. Brandt began dancing with the troupe herself 25 years ago at age 12.

"We do line marches and kicking and show dances," Brandt says, "crowd pleasers." "Every year we put on a new show dance." This year's feature is under wraps, but at previous balls they've performed routines such as the "All That Jazz" number from "Chicago."

Other club events include Weiberfasnacht, a Mardi Gras warm-up party where men dress as women and vice versa, and a post-ball party Monday in honor of Rosenmontag, or Rose Monday, at D.A.N.K. Haus Chicago, 4740 N. Western Ave.

After that comes Ash Wednesday and six austere weeks of Lent. But by then, the revelers just might welcome the rest.

New Orleans-style Mardi Gras parties

If you're looking for beads, hurricane cocktails and New Orleans-style brouhaha for Mardi Gras, try these spots. Events are Tuesday unless otherwise noted.

Alumni Club, 871 E. Algonquin Road, Schaumburg, (847) 397-3100, www.alumniclubchicago.com. Party from 8 p.m. to 1 a.m., with $1 domestic drafts and cocktails, prizes, giveaways and beads.

Bungalow Joe's, 7406 Jensen Blvd., Hanover Park, (630) 830-8899, www.bungalowjoes.net. Party with an appetizer buffet, hurricanes and karaoke.

Cadillac Ranch, 1175 W. Lake St., Bartlett, (630) 830-7200, www.cadranch.com. Party from 9 p.m. to 4 a.m., with $2 margaritas and rum drinks, prizes, giveaways and beads. Maybe you can win the Miss Mardi Gras crown.

Davis Street Fishmarket, 1383 N. Meacham Road, Schaumburg, (847) 969-1200, www.davisstreetfishmarket.com. Hurricanes and New Orleans delights such as crawfish bisque and shrimp with cognac and andouille grits will be available daily through Tuesday.

Dick's River Roadhouse, 702 N. River Road, Mount Prospect, (847) 298-7200, www.dicksriverroadhouse.com. Hurricane cocktails and other drink specials will be featured at this rollicking Mardi Gras party from 9 p.m. to 4 a.m. Saturday, with beads and prizes.

Durty Nellie's, 150 N. Smith St., Palatine, (847) 358-9150, www.durtynellies.com. Cajun food and drink specials, tarot readings and music from Hairbanger's Ball beginning at 9 p.m. $6 cover.

Famous Freddie's, 1799 S. Busse Road, Mount Prospect, (847) 593-2200, www.famousfreddiesroadhouse.com. Let the good times roll from 9 p.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday, with beads, hurricanes, prizes and music from Rolling Stones tribute band Hot Rocks.

Neighborhood Inn, 2322 Hassell Road, Hoffman Estates, (847) 843-8048, www.neighborhoodinn.com. Party from 9:30 p.m. to 2:30 a.m. Feb. 9 with karaoke, games, prizes and drink specials.

Heaven on Seven, 224 S. Main St., Naperville, (630) 717-0777, www.heavenonseven.com. New Orleans Mardi Gras decor, king cake, Louisiana cocktails including hurricanes and bayou punch, and Cajun and Creole menu specials served daily; face painting and New Orleans tunes from live bands: Chainsaw Dupont from 6 to 10 p.m. today and 5 to 11 p.m. Tuesday, Pat Hall from 6 to 11 p.m. Saturday, Steven Rohbock from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.

Retro Bistro, 1746 W. Golf Road, Mount Prospect, (847) 439-2424, www.retrobistro.com. Three-course prix-fixe, live music, dancing, beads, masks and other Mardi Gras paraphernalia beginning at 5 p.m.

Mardi Gras Chicago

Donald E. Stephens Convention Center, 5555 River Road, Rosemont

Time: 6 p.m. Saturday

Tickets: $25

Info: Ilse Striek at (773) 581-5120, www.mardigraschicago.com