Visual aspect a key ingredient in chef's approach

Growing up stocking grocery shelves and accompanying his father to produce and fish markets pointed John Ayaleanos toward a culinary career early in life.

He started out working in his family's South Side supermarket and by 19, he and a cousin had started their own sandwich shop, Fantasy Gyros at 112th Street and Michigan Avenue.

Inspired by his heritage and summer vacations in Greece, Ayaleanos went on to work in Greektown restaurants before taking a job in the early 1990s as a line cook, preparing familiar ethnic dishes at Papagus. While there, he decided to take formal culinary training and enrolled at Kendall College, landing an internship at the prestigious Everest, before graduating in 1995.

Now executive chef of Birch River Grill in Arlington Heights, Ayaleanos has worked with such chefs as Jean Joho at Everest in Chicago, Gabriel Viti at Gabriel's in Highwood and Michael Kornick at Marche and Red Light in Chicago. His career also includes stints at Founder's Hill Brewing Co. in Downers Grove and the private Valley Lo Club in Glenview. He has also served as an instructor at Kendall College.

The chef lives in Glenview, with his wife, Mary, a retail manager, and young daughter, Layla.

So, what brought you from slinging gyros to cooking at full-service restaurants? Growing up in the food business was a focal point. And when I was 19, I went into business with a relative. It was fast food, and I wondered what it would be like to actually cook rather than process food.

When I was at Papagus, it was the early '90s and very exciting. Papagus had just been named one of the top 10 restaurants in the country by Esquire magazine so it was extremely popular. It was because of chef Jonathan Fox's advice and that of my wife that I went to culinary school.

How would you describe your culinary style? There's a lot going on there. I have such a huge background. I'm deeply French-entrenched, in terms of technique.

I love to make very great-tasting food. Cooking's all about taking your raw product and making something out of it that makes your mouth water, that makes you say, "Oh my God, this is delicious!"

What's the most important culinary advice you've received? People eat with their eyes.

What do you like best about being a chef? The rush it gives, especially when it's busy and everything starts running in sync. The dishes are coming out well and the plates are coming back toward the dish stand empty.

Do you enjoy working the dining room? Working the room's great -- I've worked in a lot of open kitchens. It's fun to get customers' feedback, find out what they're making at home.

You've cooked in both the city and the suburbs. Do you see differences? There is a difference. The suburbs are more value-conscious: Where is the additional salad or side that comes with the entree?

In the suburbs, they buy more chicken. At Papagus, when the second location opened in Oak Brook, they sold three times as much chicken.

Urban dwellers tend to be more adventurous than suburban dwellers, probably because there's a greater concentration of restaurants and more of a restaurant culture.

If you could cook for anyone, who would it be? Probably the Dalai Lama. I'd be interested in his feedback. Or Escoffier (George Auguste Escoffier, 1846-1935, an influential French chef). I'd be curious to hear his take on modern cuisine.

Do you have a favorite food? I like a lot of things. There isn't really one thing. But yesterday, my mom stopped by the house and she brought over some Greek meatballs she made. I love those.

Do you visit Greece regularly? Yes, though I can't make the time to go every year. I was last there for the Olympics in 2004.

Why do you think that Greek food hasn't become more mainstream American, like Italian fare? I don't know. I read in Bon Appetit that there will be a burst of interest in Mediterranean food, especially Greek. It'll be interesting to see if that takes off.

What do you do when you're not cooking? I am playing with my daughter, usually. She's 2.

What do you cook for her? There is this Greek pasta, trahanas. It's a sourdough. I add chicken and beef, a hint of oregano and a little cinnamon and puree it and she eats it up.

Vegetables are a little bit of a problem. She doesn't eat anything green. I put some broccoli in the Robot Coupe (food processor) and puree it with cheese.

Tell us about this recipe. Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Apple Cranberry Sauce. This has become one of our most popular dishes in the restaurant. We serve these with mashed Yukon Gold potatoes and green beans with chopped walnuts.

Try this at home or at Birch River Grill in the DoubleTree Hotel, 75 W. Algonquin Road, Arlington Heights. (847) 427-4242 or www.birchrivergrill.com.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin With Apple Cranberry Sauce

1 stem rosemary

3 stems thyme

2 large cloves garlic

½ cup olive oil

1 pork tenderloin (12-18 ounces) silverskin removed

½-¾ cup Apple Cranberry Sauce, recipe follows

Put the herbs, garlic and oil in blender and puree until smooth. Place the pork in a heavy zipper-type plastic bag and add the marinade. Close the bag and shake so the marinade evenly coats the pork. Refrigerate 24 hours.

Remove the pork from the marinade and grill over medium-hot coals for about 12 minutes, turning every few minutes until nice and brown.

Alternatively, roast in a 350-degree oven for about 15 minutes.

Slice on the bias and serve with about ¼ cup sauce per serving.

Serves two to three.

Chef John Ayaleanos, Birch River Grill, Arlington Heights

Apple Cranberry Sauce

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and sliced

2 Gala apples, peeled and sliced

½ cup dried cranberries

½ white onion, peeled and cut in matchsticks

1½ teaspoons Chinese five-spice powder

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Salt and pepper to taste

2½ cups apple cider

½ cup cranberry juice

2 tablespoons apple-cider vinegar

¼ cup sugar

1½ teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons water

In a large saucepan over medium heat, cook the apples, cranberries and onions with the spices, salt and pepper until the onions become translucent.

Add the cranberry juice, apple cider, apple-cider vinegar and sugar and bring to a boil; reduce heat to a simmer and cook until the apples are soft. Bring back to a boil and add the cornstarch mixture. Cook until thickened, remove from heat and let the sauce cool.

Makes 2 to 3 cups.

Chef John Ayaleanos, Birch River Grill, Arlington Heights