The Dells - for big kids
A three-hour drive from Chicago, the Wisconsin Dells are definitely a sight to behold. Named for the sandstone rock formations that surround the Wisconsin River, this scenic area has transformed over the years into the tourist attraction it is today. But aside from the water parks, roller coasters and go-karts, the Dells can make for a fun and relaxing weekend getaway for adults (and kids at heart).
If you're planning to stay overnight, choose a hotel near downtown to be walking distance from bars, restaurants and the Wisconsin River. And unless you enjoy views of a giant hole in the ground, avoid staying on Lake Delton, which drained due to flooding this summer.
First and foremost, a trip to the Dells should include the reason the area became popular in the first place - the great outdoors. Various boat tours take tourists onto the Wisconsin River to see the cliffs, canyons and beautiful scenery along this large, winding stretch of water. Opt for the Upper Dells tour ($23 for adults; get tickets at the booth at 107 Broadway), which includes stops at Witches Gulch and Stand Rock, the site of the first stop-action photograph ever taken. The original photo featured H.H. Bennett's son leaping over a 5-foot gap in the rocks, which is "re-created" by a trained German shepard for the tour.
This being the Dells, a few touristy gimmicks taint the boat tour, including a gift shop at the end of the otherwise stunning Witches Gulch canyon and solicitation from the tour guide to buy a souvenir booklet on board.
Although not exactly natural, another obligatory outdoor activity in the Dells is mini golf. Pirate's Cove (193 Highway 13; $7.75 for adults, additional games are half price) features five 18-hole courses of varying difficulty, all of which are beautifully landscaped and surrounded by numerous waterfalls. There are no windmills or secret traps, but the Pirate's Challenge course will test even the most experienced putter.
When you get hungry, steer clear of the buffets and chain restaurants that litter the area. Moosejaw Pizza & Brewing Co. (110 Wisconsin Dells Parkway) is the Dell's only microbrewery, with 10 brews on tap including the delicious Apricot Ale, Dells Pilsener and the 9 percent alcohol Belgium Triple. The food is pretty good, too. Try the Elk Burger, homemade Beer Bread or monstrous Super Nachos.
If you're looking for something more upscale, head downtown to the new Carvelli's Pizza and Pasta House (505 Broadway). Two pages of pastas and a page of pizzas make up the bulk of the menu, and all are more than big enough to share. For breakfast, try the popular Mr. Pancake Restaurant (1011 Wisconsin Dells Parkway), where untraditional stacks include Three Pigs in a Blanket (sausages wrapped in pancakes), Peanut Butter, Iowa Corn and Hawaiian pancakes.
When the sun goes down, be sure to check out the downtown bar scene. Just off the main drag is the River Walk Pub (911 River Road), made to look like a log cabin with views of the river and an additional, enclosed beer garden outside. Mingle with the locals at Sharky's Bar & Grill (206 Broadway) and the unfortunately named Nig's Bar (201 Broadway), or cheers to the Germans at the Essen Haus (414 Broadway). Best of all, drinking in the Dells is dirt cheap. Many domestic pints are $3 or less, and a 2-liter boot at the Essen Haus is a steal at $14.
Still haven't had enough Dells? Catch a double feature at the Big Sky Drive-In Theatre (N9199 Winnebago Road; $8 for adults), open on Fridays and Saturdays through the end of September. For shopping, skip the tacky gift shops on Broadway and hit the Tanger Outlets (210 Gasser Road) for Banana Republic, Ralph Lauren, Nike and many other factory stores.
Wisconsin Dells
(800) 223-3557
While you're there
Where to stay
RiverWalk Hotel, 1015 River Road, Wisconsin Dells, Wis.; (800) 659-5395; dellsriverwalkhotel. com: A classic mom-and-pop hotel on the bank of the Wisconsin River, pick a room with a balcony overlooking the water ($79/night in the off season). The hotel is a five-minute walk to downtown.
Things to see
Wollersheim Winery, 7876 Highway 188, Prairie du Sac, Wis.; (800) VIP-WINE; wollersheim.com; $3.50 for adults: Thirty miles from the Dells, this winery offers hourly tours from 10:15 a.m. to 4:15 p.m. every day. Of-age visitors can also enjoy a free tasting without going on the tour.
Devil's Lake State Park, off Highway 123 in Baraboo, Wis.; (608) 356-8301; devilslakewisconsin. com: Choose from more than a dozen hiking trails, all with different distances and levels of difficulty. Two trails are also accessible to bikes. Devil's Lake is 10 miles south of the Dells.