With move to Barrington, French-inspired Epicure Bistro hasn't missed a beat
Epicure Bistro has made a strong impression with diners ever since its arrival at Barrington's Foundry Mall in late spring, proving a worthy successor to the shuttered Barrington Country Bistro, whose space it now occupies.
Started by Katherine Cappas, the restaurant began as La Petite Creperie in Woodstock, where it enjoyed a 10-year run before evolving into Epicure.
The new transplant, which bills itself as a modern American bistro, substantially increases the venue's seating capacity from 60 to 150. Chef Pedro Ballesteros, a carry-over from the Woodstock location, also has more elbow room in the new kitchen.
There's a small but well-stocked bar featuring domestic and imported beer and wine. Plus, there are French-inspired aperitifs and cocktails, including one we sampled, an Absinthe Sazerac on the rocks, a potent combination of the liqueur, whiskey and bitters. Just-released Beaujolais Nouveau also was available during our recent visit.
Crepes — savory and sweet — remain the mainstay at this venue, whose approachable menu has expanded with special appetizers and a handful of full-sized entrees that change weekly. Also new are three tacos — blackened tilapia, seared ahi tuna and porchetta (roast pork) — served on flour tortillas.
A shared starter — duck leg confit in cranberry sauce, served over a roasted portobello mushroom — pleased our palates with its tenderness and flavor, though, at $15.50, the dish admittedly was a splurge. Other options include mini burger sliders in red wine sauce that come topped with grilled onions and cheese; shrimp caldine in a coconut curry; and escargots de Bourgognon, a classic garlic-and-herb-flavored dish.
Main-course entrees, including braised lamb shank, wild-caught swordfish, wild game (think venison and wild boar), meatloaf and New York strip steak frites, sounded interesting.
But so did the diverse made-to-order dinner crepe offerings, each accompanied by salad dressed in a Dijon vinaigrette and served in a small cup.
A good choice is La Bourguignone, a large wheat flour crepe holding a flavorful filling of red wine sauce braised beef served with carrots, mushrooms and pearl onions.
Another entree I can recommend is l'Oceane: a seaworthy crepe housing shrimp, bay scallops and salmon in a sun-dried tapenade cream sauce.
The flavors of chicken, andouille sausage and ham star in some of the other crepe options.
Gluten-free, vegetarian and child-friendly courses are appropriately identified on the printed menu.
Breakfast crepes as well as a number of traditional French salads and sandwiches, including croque monsieur and croque madame, also are available.
Epicure doesn't stint on dessert crepes, offering diners a choice of 10 types available in small or large serving sizes. Crepes Suzette and bananas Foster tempted, though we found that the La Juliette crepe with a warm mixed-berries compote and chocolate sauce and the Bisou crepe with a tasty lemon curd and meringue each provided a delicious eating experience.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Epicure Bistro
718 W. Northwest Hwy., Barrington, (847) 382-1677, <a href="http://epicurebistro.com">epicurebistro.com</a>
<b>Cuisine:</b> Modern American bistro with a French accent
<b>Setting:</b> A charming, free-standing dining space
<b>Prices:</b> Appetizers $11 to $15.50; entrees $19 to $29; dessert crepes $4 to $8.50 (small), $9 to $16 (large)
<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday brunch
<b>Reservations:</b> Accepted
<b>Parking:</b> Free lot