Historic setting, seasonal menu give Fiora's an air of elegance

There's something about Fiora's - an elegant newcomer in downtown Geneva - that feels so right. Set in a yellow, historic home, the venture from husband-and-wife team Ann and Mike Anastasio blends into its picturesque surroundings, while affording an upscale yet approachable dining experience.

Fiora's is divided into unique spaces: a sweeping sunroom overlooking Third Street, a cozy book-filled library wine bar, a lush red dining room and a stone-floored cellar. Chandelier lighting and gracious wood details further the intimate feel. Not surprisingly, the opportunities to spark quiet conversations abound.

In the kitchen is Aaron Wendinger (formerly of La Dolce Vita and Isabella's), who created a concise menu of European-influenced American cuisine. All of it is intended to pair nicely with wine, of which there is plenty on offer. The menu changes a few times a year.

Among the handful of appetizers, the bruschetta trio provides a change of pace. When we dined, smoked salmon, tomato-havarti (the best of the bunch) and red pepper-garlic cheddar toppings were on offer. The summer menu has shifted to include white beans with basil oil in place of the salmon version.

The earthy, flaky mushroom-filled strudel - baked with Gouda and paired with zingy lemon aioli - is a lovely alternative, one we very much enjoyed. Other starters include red pepper-spinach dip and a pancetta, provolone, tomato and baby spinach-topped flatbread.

A small artisan and farmstead cheese selection makes the perfect precursor - or finale - to a meal. Options may include an olive oil-rubbed cheddar and tangy, soft goat's milk cheese from California.

We couldn't resist the lobster bisque on the menu when we dined; it was every bit as indulgent as you'd expect. Given added oomph from cognac, this one's a cool-weather keeper - one we hope to see each time the temperatures dip. For now, look for the summer gazpacho.

There are a handful of salads to choose from, including a grilled stone fruit garden salad with balsamic vinaigrette as well as a steakhouse-style wedge topped with blue cheese, tomatoes, red onion and blue cheese dressing.

Among entrees, we went for the steak frites, which was quite good - though more like a straight-up steak than anything resembling the bistro classic. The 12-ounce portion was topped with sauteed mushrooms and red onions; on the side were thicker-than-average, though perfectly crisp, fries. Steak lovers can opt instead this summer for the fillet medallions au poivre, served in a brandy peppercorn sauce.

The pan-roasted chicken, meanwhile, delivered pretty much what we expected. Glistening, crackly skin and aromatic rosemary jus made this a familiar and welcoming find. These days, marinated, grilled chicken with lime-scented orzo salad appears in its place.

Other entrees to look for range from pan-seared, citrus-crusted duck breast with Grand Marnier pan sauce to grilled salmon with mixed veggies. There's also a rib-eye with chimichurri.

Desserts are pretty traditional. We went for the delish berry cobbler topped with just-tangy-enough buttermilk crust and creamy vanilla gelato. We also opted for the dense flourless chocolate cake, accented by chocolate ganache.

At lunchtime, the menu skews toward sandwiches, perhaps roast sirloin with smoked provolone and mushroom-onion compote on toasted ciabatta as well as a Reuben constructed from house-made corned beef. A handful of entrees - crab cakes with rémoulade, broccoli-cheddar quiche - lean rather light.

The midpriced wine list is large and thoughtful with bottles from California and beyond. About 20 are available by the glass.

Throughout our meal, service could not have been more gracious, keeping the comfort level high. Granted, this may not be the kind of place you dine at every day, but there are plenty of reasons you'll wish you could.

<p class="factboxheadblack">Fiora's</p>

<p class="News"><b>Location:</b> 317 Third St., Geneva</p>

<p class="News"><b>Contact: </b>(630) 262-1317, <a href="http://www.fioras.com" target="new">www.fioras.com</a></p>

<p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> American, with European influences</p>

<p class="News"><b>Setting:</b> A home-turned-romantic restaurant</p>

<p class="News"><b>Entrees:</b> $11.95 to $27.97</p>

<p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Dinner 5:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday</p>