Small plates, wine a hit at hip Wicker Park bistro
It's a common assumption that wine bars are snooty and that oenephiles are the only ones welcome and at home in such a setting. Fortunately, that's all starting to change with the addition of several approachable -- even affordable -- spots that cater to every day folks who just happen to appreciate the taste of a good grape.
Already clued into the trend, the owners of Lincoln Park's Webster's Wine Bar decided to set up shop in Wicker Park where the clientele is hip, the overall neighborhood vibe laid-back and the competition -- as far as bars and restaurants go -- stiff.
From the moment we stepped into The Bluebird Bistro & Winebar, we were impressed by the accessibility of the place. It's got a recycled-material-meets-science-lab thing going on, and it totally works. The bar, constructed from old wine barrels, is illuminated by industrial fixtures and lined with neat but not-so-comfortable metal chairs. Exposed brick adds to the rough-hewn feel, as do the (wobbly) tables fashioned from pickle tanks.
The wine and craft beer list truly is the star of the show, but that's not to say food is an afterthought. Together, the whole thing works quite well.
Still, we'll start with the bevs. The selection of more than 100 wines (a fair number available by the glass) is surprisingly cost-conscious with bottles starting in the low $20s; the best bargains can be found on a chalkboard in the front room of the long, skinny space. With descriptors like "cloudy," "inky" and "slightly herbal" you get a feel for what you'll encounter.
As for brews, the selection is equally serious -- witness the Allagash Brewery Curieux that's aged in Jim Beam barrels for eight weeks.
We stuck with wine, though, and settled on a bottle of Alfredo Roca Pinot Noir from Argentina. Not only did it live up to its descriptor -- expressive black cherry, rhubarb and olive notes -- it was lush for its $28 price tag.
When it comes to the food, "bistro" label is a bit of a stretch. Bites, small plates and sharable dishes are more what the menu is about. There's a lot to love, and the price points are an easy place to start. From the selection of three "toasts," we zeroed in on the sun-dried tomato "relish" topped with a crisp of lomo (cured pork loin). It was a nicely textured affair -- both chewy and crunchy, salty and slightly sweet. At $4, the plate of two was just enough to whet our appetites. We were tempted by the cream cheese and melted leek or shiitake and smoked shallot versions as follow-ups, but things would have begun to add up.
Other tiny snacks range from a bowl of olives (Manzanilla, Arbequina, Marcona almond-stuffed Gordal and Black Cuquillo) to fiery chicken wings offset by grilled citrus fruit.
Salads, such as chick peas with orzo, mint, coriander, yogurt, caraway and arugula, are an option as well. But we couldn't be bothered, since it was the flatbreads -- the Serrano ham, manchego and egg, in particular -- that held our gazes. It was decently sized for the $11 price, and the crust was wonderfully crisped in contrast to the lacquer of runny yolk. Additional takes include roasted mushrooms, roasted shallots, garlic, watercress and brie and tomato, basil, pine buts, Calabrese salami, arugula and fresh mozzarella.
Another satisfying feature of the menu is its design-your-own charcuterie-style plates where 2-ounce portions of meat and cheese come with a hunk of bread, pistachios, olives and cornichons. We settled on the beer sausage and knackwurst brought in from Chicago's own Leon's Sausage Co. The knackwurst was especially memorable, along with pungent Valdeon blue and nutty Mahón D.O. cheeses from Spain.
You certainly can nosh your way through a meal and be happy, but there are eight somewhat more substantial offerings -- dubbed "plates" -- that are worth considering. The "baconed" pork chop was a fine way to go. More akin to a smoky ham steak, the moist, brined meat was garnished with a dollop of peach chutney, which cut through the saltiness. No sides came with, so we ordered up the frites; the generous fistful of skin-on fries came nicely seasoned in a tall, milkshake-worthy aluminum cup. Mild-mannered garlic aioli and curry-infused ketchup arrived alongside.
Next time, we might sway toward the dish of roasted slab bacon -- how good does that sound? -- with sweet pears and peppercorn, ale-braised rabbit with bacon, mushrooms, shallots and pasta, grilled flap steak with marrow butter and parsley toast or flageolet bean stew with red potatoes and a cheese crisp. On the side: Carr's Valley goat's milk cheddar macaroni gratin or sautéed bacon green beans.
An interesting, some might say off-putting, discovery is that there is only one dessert offering -- and it's not what you'd expect. It's a dessert plate that carries on the munching theme with chocolate-dipped figs and dates filled with Marcona almonds, pleasantly cloying baklava, dried apricots, currents, cashews and pistachios. No hot lava cake for these guys.
In our experience, service was every bit as chill as the setting and selections. But it also was on-point. Our wine glasses were refilled throughout the meal; sad as it may seem, this often isn't the case past the first pour at high-end spots. While certainly of the indie persuasion, not one of the servers sported a cooler-than-thou attitude, which made wining and dining here an especially enjoyable affair.
Another bonus: the menu denotes not only vegetarian dishes but also those that are veg-optional, so you don't have to worry about gripes when special requests are made.
So, whether you're a wine snob, a cheapskate, a lover of snacks or a guzzler of beer, you can expect to coexist in comfort at this neighborhood gem.
The Bluebird Bistro & Winebar
1749 N. Damen Ave., Chicago, (773) 486-2473
Cuisine: Small plates
Setting: Sparse, industrial and hip
Price range: Small plates $4 to $9; flatbreads and salads $6 to $11; charcuterie $2.50 to $4; entrees $10 to $19; dessert $8
Hours: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Sunday through Friday; 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. Saturday
Accepts: Major credit cards